Quémala, Quémala

“Burn it. Burn it.” Seconds after the chant erupted amongst the assembled family members, the pile of large dolls had been doused in gasoline and set afire. As the dolls roasted, children and adults alike began jumping over the inferno and dancing in the streets. The dolls, representing the bad of the past year, were burning and optimism about the good to come in 2012 had set in throughout Zamora.

Although the coming of the New Year is celebrated across the globe, traditions obviously vary significantly depending local culture and beliefs. In Ecuador, the night begins sedately before erupting into to wild party lasting well past dawn.

Rather than spending New Year's eve surrounded by gringos, I decided to return to Zamora amongst my Ecuadorian friends and neighbors. Unsurprisingly, given the importance of family in Ecuador, the early evening was generally spent surrounded by relatives. I did not, however, spend it alone although my entire family resides in the northern hemisphere as another teacher in the colegio generously invited Will and I to have dinner with his family.

Following the meal, we meandered through Zamora looking at the elaborate displays of “año viejos” or male dolls representing the bad of 2011. The paper maché creations were beautiful; not only did they often caricature unpopular politicians, but they often held signs with witty statements decrying political and personal decisions made during the past year. Although I enjoyed seeing the dolls, it was somewhat bittersweet knowing that the artwork would be set aflame only a few hours later at midnight.

In spite of the clear and breezy night in the jungle, not all was tranquilo in Zamora. According to Ecuadorian tradition, the widows of the año viejo lurked in the streets seeking help. This belief manifests itself as dozens of adolescent boys dressing in women's clothing and blocking roads while begging for money. On almost every road in town, groups of men in women's attire had strung ropes to stop cars who they then subsequently bothered until they received a few coins. It was, to put it mildly, a truly odd sight.

After wandering through almost the entirety of Zamora, Will and I joined our friend Mayra and her family to watch as they burned their año viejos and celebrated the beginning of 2012. We watched as the dolls burned in the street and joined the family as they danced to salsa and cumbia music as the clock struck midnight. By 1:30, we had all shifted down towards the riverfront and discotecas where we joined several other friends and danced until dawn. Literally. I left at 5:30 AM and was later informed by several Ecuadorian friends that I had missed out by leaving so early. The party, it seems, did not end until 8:30 AM.