Classes started on Monday...right?
Nope. As we discovered when trying to apply for our ID cards last week, nothing is ever simple in Santiago. Class registration has proved insanely complicated. After finally meeting with a Universidad de Chile representative today, we had to trek across the city to various campuses to enroll in person. If we had known exactly which courses we planned to take, this wouldn't have been too frusterating. Unfortunately, most schedules arn't available until a student enrolls, so I journeyed across Santiago for nothing. On the bright side, we discovered that engineering campus is absolutely georgeous and that it is almost impossible to push your way onto the metro after 5:00.
26.7.09
Mucha Familia. Muchissima Familia.
Bienvenidos a Chile. For real.
After spending the past two weeks surrounded by twenty gringos, I am finally living with my host family. No more orientation. No more charlas. No more English.
Before parting ways on Saturday, we spent our final day of orientation much like we spent most of the others--in charlas. Fortunately, Professor Winn decided to save the most interesting lecture, which discussed the public health system in Chile, for Friday. We also ended the charlas much earlier than usual, so we could enjoy the delightful weather. While it was only 35 degrees earlier in the week, the thermometer must have neared 70 degrees and we certainly took advantage of it. Several of us had a picnic lunch followed by some of the best ice cream I have ever eaten in my life. To put it bluntly, whoever told me it would be impossible to find good ice cream in Santiago must have lied.
Once night fell, we reconvened for our final meal with Professor Winn, Carmen Gloria, and Raquelita. We went to a rather fancy restaurant in the Bellavista district to try even more Chilean specialty dishes. We started off the meal with a round of pisco sours and some pan con pevere (a salsa-like tomato garnish). This was soon followed by an appetizer consisting of a variety of meat and shellfish. At this point, I was relatively full, but still couldn't resist devouring my entire entree consisting of congrio (eel) and spinach stuffed with a delicious but unknown type of cheese. We washed such deliciousness down with several Chilean wines. Even after eating so much food I still managed to enjoy our chirimoya and pastry dessert. An absolutely amazing meal. My only regret is that we planned to go dancing at some of the many discotecas in Bellavista after the meal, so I couldn't photograph each delicious dish. Before piling into a taxi to return to the hostel for the last time several hours later, we danced the night away at several of the discotecas dotting Bellavista.
Saturday marked the official end of orientation. After frantically packing in the early morning, we dumped all of our luggage to the patio to wait for our host families. Both nervous and excited, we watched as our Tufts classmates disappeared one by one. Suddenly, Carmen Gloria called my name and I plunged into a world of rapid fire Spanish and a bit of confusion.
Immediately after being picked up at the hostel, I discovered that I would meet the entire family that day at my host parents' granddaughter's baptism. And by entire family, I mean the entire family consisting of upwards of sixty people. I honestly tried to remember names, but it's going to take quite some time. While I only understood about half of what was said, everyone seemed friendly and the food was absolutely delicious.
Sometime after midnight, we finally returned to the apartment that I will call home for the next semester. Not only does it boast some beautiful views of Santiago, but it is also beautifully decorated and my room full of bright colors. I'll share the apartment with my host mother (Blanca), father (Juan), and their son (Felipe). While I struggle to understand much of what is said, I can't wait to spend the semester living here.
Hasta Luego!
Christy
After spending the past two weeks surrounded by twenty gringos, I am finally living with my host family. No more orientation. No more charlas. No more English.
Before parting ways on Saturday, we spent our final day of orientation much like we spent most of the others--in charlas. Fortunately, Professor Winn decided to save the most interesting lecture, which discussed the public health system in Chile, for Friday. We also ended the charlas much earlier than usual, so we could enjoy the delightful weather. While it was only 35 degrees earlier in the week, the thermometer must have neared 70 degrees and we certainly took advantage of it. Several of us had a picnic lunch followed by some of the best ice cream I have ever eaten in my life. To put it bluntly, whoever told me it would be impossible to find good ice cream in Santiago must have lied.
Once night fell, we reconvened for our final meal with Professor Winn, Carmen Gloria, and Raquelita. We went to a rather fancy restaurant in the Bellavista district to try even more Chilean specialty dishes. We started off the meal with a round of pisco sours and some pan con pevere (a salsa-like tomato garnish). This was soon followed by an appetizer consisting of a variety of meat and shellfish. At this point, I was relatively full, but still couldn't resist devouring my entire entree consisting of congrio (eel) and spinach stuffed with a delicious but unknown type of cheese. We washed such deliciousness down with several Chilean wines. Even after eating so much food I still managed to enjoy our chirimoya and pastry dessert. An absolutely amazing meal. My only regret is that we planned to go dancing at some of the many discotecas in Bellavista after the meal, so I couldn't photograph each delicious dish. Before piling into a taxi to return to the hostel for the last time several hours later, we danced the night away at several of the discotecas dotting Bellavista.
Saturday marked the official end of orientation. After frantically packing in the early morning, we dumped all of our luggage to the patio to wait for our host families. Both nervous and excited, we watched as our Tufts classmates disappeared one by one. Suddenly, Carmen Gloria called my name and I plunged into a world of rapid fire Spanish and a bit of confusion.
Immediately after being picked up at the hostel, I discovered that I would meet the entire family that day at my host parents' granddaughter's baptism. And by entire family, I mean the entire family consisting of upwards of sixty people. I honestly tried to remember names, but it's going to take quite some time. While I only understood about half of what was said, everyone seemed friendly and the food was absolutely delicious.
Sometime after midnight, we finally returned to the apartment that I will call home for the next semester. Not only does it boast some beautiful views of Santiago, but it is also beautifully decorated and my room full of bright colors. I'll share the apartment with my host mother (Blanca), father (Juan), and their son (Felipe). While I struggle to understand much of what is said, I can't wait to spend the semester living here.
Hasta Luego!
Christy
23.7.09
"There is a Problemita at La Moneda"
Charlas.Galletas. Two words that easily sum up our past few days. Although there isn't a lot of events to discuss, we have had the opportunity to hear several interesting speakers including a Chilean Naval General, the editor of a prominent newspaper ( The Clinic), and a couple sociologists. Most interestingly, we had the opportunity to hear Mario Toral speak in his studio. This Chilean artist, who painted the murals found at the University of Chile Metro Stop, explained many of the images found within this mural and showed us mamy of his other pieces. While the mural is stunning, I definately preferred his series of sketches intertwining images from two great tragedies that occured on September 11 - the coup orchastrated by Pinochet and the terrorist attacks of 2001. The two events occured several decades apart, but his sketches definatley relate the events. On another note, something about his work reminded me of Shepard Fairey. Perhaps it is only the political overtones, but something seemed to relate their work.
Fortunately, we weren't cooped up in lectures the entire time. We also attended our University of Chile orientation on Tuesday. Not only did they give us a sweet backpack, but they also included a performance by a talented Chilean dance group. More importantly, they also explained how to register for classes online. Seems like it should be a relatively simple process, but the university has yet to reveal when most classes actually meet. Wouldn't be too big of an issue if classes didn't start on Monday. Oh well...not a big deal. Just a little frusterating.
The frusteration continuedon Wednesday when on a trip around the city to register our visas. Think it was easy? Nope. After we waited in line forever...with only telenovelas for entertainment...we were told that our copies of our passports and visa were too dark. Thus, we had to recopy and go again. Significantly later, most of us "passed" but a few still had problems since others had either misspelled their name or stamped their passports too lightly. Frusterating but also somewhat amusing (well, for me since I "passed" and don't have to return at 8:00 AM tomorrow morning). The day brightened though, when we subsequently visited Mario Toral and heard from the editor of the clinic. However, the highlight of the day definately proved to be a reunion with my TA from Spanish 21. While she was studying abroad at Tufts, she helped with Spanish discussion sections. She has since returned to Santiago, discovered that several of her former students are studying here, and decided to contact us for dinner. We may have struggled to speak in Spanish for an entire meal, but the experience unquestionably gave us much needed practice before moving in with our host families. And, more importantly, it was a very good time.
Thursday...more charlas of course. But we also enjoyed a guided tour of La Moneda. While the president no longer lives in the building, President Bachelet does work there and we all hoped for a sighting. No luck. We did, however, have the opportunity to see the insides of the stunning facility. After our tour, Professor Winn discussed his experiences during the coup...which include the title of the entry. Apparently a Chilean, a nationality notorious for their understatements, actually described the 1973 coup as a "problemita."
And, as usual, I'll end my post with some more pictures. I promise I'll try to be up-to-date soon.
Los Dominicos: http://picasaweb.google.com/ChristyChile/LosDominicos#
Cerro Santa Lucia:http://picasaweb.google.com/ChristyChile/CerroSantaLucia#
Fortunately, we weren't cooped up in lectures the entire time. We also attended our University of Chile orientation on Tuesday. Not only did they give us a sweet backpack, but they also included a performance by a talented Chilean dance group. More importantly, they also explained how to register for classes online. Seems like it should be a relatively simple process, but the university has yet to reveal when most classes actually meet. Wouldn't be too big of an issue if classes didn't start on Monday. Oh well...not a big deal. Just a little frusterating.
The frusteration continuedon Wednesday when on a trip around the city to register our visas. Think it was easy? Nope. After we waited in line forever...with only telenovelas for entertainment...we were told that our copies of our passports and visa were too dark. Thus, we had to recopy and go again. Significantly later, most of us "passed" but a few still had problems since others had either misspelled their name or stamped their passports too lightly. Frusterating but also somewhat amusing (well, for me since I "passed" and don't have to return at 8:00 AM tomorrow morning). The day brightened though, when we subsequently visited Mario Toral and heard from the editor of the clinic. However, the highlight of the day definately proved to be a reunion with my TA from Spanish 21. While she was studying abroad at Tufts, she helped with Spanish discussion sections. She has since returned to Santiago, discovered that several of her former students are studying here, and decided to contact us for dinner. We may have struggled to speak in Spanish for an entire meal, but the experience unquestionably gave us much needed practice before moving in with our host families. And, more importantly, it was a very good time.
Thursday...more charlas of course. But we also enjoyed a guided tour of La Moneda. While the president no longer lives in the building, President Bachelet does work there and we all hoped for a sighting. No luck. We did, however, have the opportunity to see the insides of the stunning facility. After our tour, Professor Winn discussed his experiences during the coup...which include the title of the entry. Apparently a Chilean, a nationality notorious for their understatements, actually described the 1973 coup as a "problemita."
And, as usual, I'll end my post with some more pictures. I promise I'll try to be up-to-date soon.
Los Dominicos: http://picasaweb.google.com/ChristyChile/LosDominicos#
Cerro Santa Lucia:http://picasaweb.google.com/ChristyChile/CerroSantaLucia#
20.7.09
Contrasts and the City
After spending only a week in Santiago, it has become evident that it is a city of contrasts. Buildings dating back to the colonial era stand alongside modern skyscrapers; dense urban communities abut acres covered with nothing but trees. Most upsettingly, desperately poor poblaciones lie alongside affluent neighborhoods. On Sunday, a sociologist highlighted this disparity during our bus tour of the numerous little boroughs found throughout the city.
Prior to departing, we shopped and lunched in Los Dominicos, a charming marketplace boasting handmade Chilean crafts. Not only did we browse through lapis lazuri jewelry, copper goods, and leather goods, but we also had the opportunity to see an unusual pet shop selling "pavo real" (or royal turkeys AKA peacocks for any anglophiles reading my blog).
We began in the most affluent region of the city, Vitacura, which boasts designer stores and highrise apartment buildings. However, the development is not overwhelmingly as lively green parks are interspersed throughout. This area is also home to the United Nations operations in the city and various consulates and embassies.
We continued onward and eventually arrived in my new hometown, Nunoa. While I was unable to see the actual apartment, I enjoyed seeing the surrounding neighborhoods. Shops and restaurants dot the region. According to the sociologist, it is also home to numerous professors and a square reminiscent of Harvard Square. Hopefully, it will have a vibe similar to that found near Tufts with a Chilean twist.
After visiting several more neighborhoods, we eventually arrived at one of the poorest poblaciones in the city. The shanties (for lack of a better word) lacked running water. Ironically, they also lacked electricity, although high tension wires literally ran through the middle of their houses. While the situation in such a neighborhood is obviously bleak, there seem to be a few bright spots. Without any reasons to stay inside, groups congregate and chat around outdoor fires. We also stumbled upon a soccer game played with obvious intensity and passion on a dirt field. Soccer, or more accurately futbol, is obviously loved throughout Chile. We rarely venture anywhere without encountering an impromptu game. Although I enjoy seeing these games, it bothers me slightly that girls never seem to be playing given the proven benefits of athletics in both physical and emotional development.
Monday, we attempted to gain a better understanding of the economic realities resulting in the sharp social divisions highlighted in the tour. An economist and a former Chilean presidential candidate each spoke for several hours on Chilean economics and the challenges facing the nation as it attempts to develop into a more equitable society without sacrificing environmental standards.
As the charlas proved complex, all were grateful to finally have some free time to change money, buy cell phones, and explore the city a bit more independantly. I joined several others in running errands and climbing to the top of Cerro Santa Lucia for some incredible views of the city below.
Last but not least...more pictures!
Aconcagua Valley: http://picasaweb.google.com/ChristyChile/AconcaguaValley#
Prior to departing, we shopped and lunched in Los Dominicos, a charming marketplace boasting handmade Chilean crafts. Not only did we browse through lapis lazuri jewelry, copper goods, and leather goods, but we also had the opportunity to see an unusual pet shop selling "pavo real" (or royal turkeys AKA peacocks for any anglophiles reading my blog).
We began in the most affluent region of the city, Vitacura, which boasts designer stores and highrise apartment buildings. However, the development is not overwhelmingly as lively green parks are interspersed throughout. This area is also home to the United Nations operations in the city and various consulates and embassies.
We continued onward and eventually arrived in my new hometown, Nunoa. While I was unable to see the actual apartment, I enjoyed seeing the surrounding neighborhoods. Shops and restaurants dot the region. According to the sociologist, it is also home to numerous professors and a square reminiscent of Harvard Square. Hopefully, it will have a vibe similar to that found near Tufts with a Chilean twist.
After visiting several more neighborhoods, we eventually arrived at one of the poorest poblaciones in the city. The shanties (for lack of a better word) lacked running water. Ironically, they also lacked electricity, although high tension wires literally ran through the middle of their houses. While the situation in such a neighborhood is obviously bleak, there seem to be a few bright spots. Without any reasons to stay inside, groups congregate and chat around outdoor fires. We also stumbled upon a soccer game played with obvious intensity and passion on a dirt field. Soccer, or more accurately futbol, is obviously loved throughout Chile. We rarely venture anywhere without encountering an impromptu game. Although I enjoy seeing these games, it bothers me slightly that girls never seem to be playing given the proven benefits of athletics in both physical and emotional development.
Monday, we attempted to gain a better understanding of the economic realities resulting in the sharp social divisions highlighted in the tour. An economist and a former Chilean presidential candidate each spoke for several hours on Chilean economics and the challenges facing the nation as it attempts to develop into a more equitable society without sacrificing environmental standards.
As the charlas proved complex, all were grateful to finally have some free time to change money, buy cell phones, and explore the city a bit more independantly. I joined several others in running errands and climbing to the top of Cerro Santa Lucia for some incredible views of the city below.
Last but not least...more pictures!
Aconcagua Valley: http://picasaweb.google.com/ChristyChile/AconcaguaValley#
19.7.09
Human Rights and Aconcagua Valley
Throughout the past couple days, we have explored the numerous human rights violations that have occured throughout Chile. We began by studying the horrors endured during Pinochet's reign by touring numerous sights with a survivor of one of the most notorious torture centers, Villa Grimaldi. Afterwards, we journeyed to the site of Villa Grimaldi and meandered through the park designed to memorialze the victims. Our guide explained the significance of much of the memorial and the realities found in each spot before Pinochet destroyed the evidence of the horrors. After visiting the park, we journeyed to the city's official cemetary. It is currently home to upwards of five million corpses, arranged by social class. Ironically, the tomb of Salvador Allende can be found those of Santiago's aristocracy. We also observed the graves of the unknown desaparecidos and a moving tribute to all who needlessly slaughtered by dictator Pinochet.
Saturday, we left behind the horrors of past human rights violations in the city and journeyed to the Aconcagua Valley, rwhich is known for its fruit farms and viewsof the Andes. We began by meeting with a labor organizer and some temporary workers on the farms, who explained that many human rights violations still occur there today. Rather than being orchastrated by a dictator, these are inflicted by companies who often cheat workers of their wages or refuse to pay. We then took the temporary workers to a tradition peasant lunch of chicken and potatoes in an almond broth. Not only did the workers seem to enjoy meeting us and speaking in Spanish, but the also enjoyed the chance to eat at a restaurant previously beyond their means. Following the meal, we travelled to a nearby hill to enjoy beautiful vistas of the valley and the Andes. Such contrasted sharply with the shanties of those actually living there. We briefly walked amongst their houses before stopping at the local Chicheria for some locally brewed chicha. This drink, which could be considered mix of beer and apple cider, is often considered one of Chile's many national drinks. Before leaving, we quickly stopped at the Local Mapuche Leadership Center and the class demonstrated some traditional music and dancing.
AND THE MOST EXCITING PART OF MY POST...
I am FINALLY posting pictures available at the following links:
In and Around Santiago (Days 1-5): http://picasaweb.google.com/ChristyChile/GalletasAndCharlasChilePart1#
The University of Chile Metro Station: http://picasaweb.google.com/ChristyChile/TheUniversityOfChileMural#
The Memorial at Paine: http://picasaweb.google.com/ChristyChile/TheMemorialToLosDesaparecidosAtPaineChile#
Santa Rita Vineyard: http://picasaweb.google.com/ChristyChile/SantaRitaVineyard#
Villa Grimaldi Park: http://picasaweb.google.com/ChristyChile/VillaGrimaldi#
The City's Cemetary:http://picasaweb.google.com/ChristyChile/TheCityCemetary#
Aconcagua Valley: Coming Soon
A bit of a picture overload...but what can I say? I love my camera.
Saturday, we left behind the horrors of past human rights violations in the city and journeyed to the Aconcagua Valley, rwhich is known for its fruit farms and viewsof the Andes. We began by meeting with a labor organizer and some temporary workers on the farms, who explained that many human rights violations still occur there today. Rather than being orchastrated by a dictator, these are inflicted by companies who often cheat workers of their wages or refuse to pay. We then took the temporary workers to a tradition peasant lunch of chicken and potatoes in an almond broth. Not only did the workers seem to enjoy meeting us and speaking in Spanish, but the also enjoyed the chance to eat at a restaurant previously beyond their means. Following the meal, we travelled to a nearby hill to enjoy beautiful vistas of the valley and the Andes. Such contrasted sharply with the shanties of those actually living there. We briefly walked amongst their houses before stopping at the local Chicheria for some locally brewed chicha. This drink, which could be considered mix of beer and apple cider, is often considered one of Chile's many national drinks. Before leaving, we quickly stopped at the Local Mapuche Leadership Center and the class demonstrated some traditional music and dancing.
AND THE MOST EXCITING PART OF MY POST...
I am FINALLY posting pictures available at the following links:
In and Around Santiago (Days 1-5): http://picasaweb.google.com/ChristyChile/GalletasAndCharlasChilePart1#
The University of Chile Metro Station: http://picasaweb.google.com/ChristyChile/TheUniversityOfChileMural#
The Memorial at Paine: http://picasaweb.google.com/ChristyChile/TheMemorialToLosDesaparecidosAtPaineChile#
Santa Rita Vineyard: http://picasaweb.google.com/ChristyChile/SantaRitaVineyard#
Villa Grimaldi Park: http://picasaweb.google.com/ChristyChile/VillaGrimaldi#
The City's Cemetary:http://picasaweb.google.com/ChristyChile/TheCityCemetary#
Aconcagua Valley: Coming Soon
A bit of a picture overload...but what can I say? I love my camera.
16.7.09
And So It Begins
And so it begins. After spending several months anticipating our arrival in Santiago, we have finally arrived in our new home.
The flight itself was relatively painless minus the massive headache plaguing me for much of the second leg of the trip. American Airlines even came through regarding their TV choices...well, kinda. The Office and 30 Rock initially seemed like pretty solid choices. By the third time they replayed each episode, however, I never wanted to hear the terms "PPC" or "Generallisimo" ever again. Given the number of empty seats dotting the plane, we were luckily able to sprawl out and doze through most of the night. By sunrise, we had landed in Santiago, and, with the exception of a jar of honey, all made it through customs unharmed.
The next few moments marked the beginning of the whirlwind of sightseeing and lectures that have defined our orientation experience. It is, unfortunately, impossible for me to adequately recount everything that occured throughout the first few days. So, I've decided to briefly summarize some of the most exciting events each day.
Saturday: Realizing that many had not slept well on the plane, Carmen Gloria allowed us most of the day to relax in our hostel. We were, however, too excited to remain inside and many of us decided to roam the city. Fortunately, our hostel is situated relatively near many of Santiago's most prominent tourist attractions. Without a map or any guide whatsoever, we stumbled upon La Moneda and Plaza de Armas along with a ridiculous number of shoe stores and dozens and dozens of stray dogs. We also stopped for our first tastes of Chilean cuisine and enjoyed empanadas de pollo y pino. Little did we know that this food would become a staple appetizer throughout the next few weeks.
Sunday: As we had no organized activities until noon, several of us formed the mistakenly-titled "equipaje a" and went for a brief run in the morning. We discovered a nearby park in which we were joined by several stray dogs eager to race us down the area paths. At noon, we were joined by our faculty advisor for a peasant lunch at "Mi Rancho," in an outlying suburb of the city. The pastel de chocle, a thick dish consisting of numerous meats and corn meal, proved delicious but overwhelmingly large. We followed the meal with a quick visit to Cerro San Cristobal, a park atop the largest hill in Santiago. Like the enormous statue of the Virgin Mary, we looked down upon the sprawling city and the surrounding mountains. Santiago is very expansive, as most of the city's six million residents live in relatively short buildings. I believe, correct me if I'm wrong EPIICers, that it could be described as a "horizontal city." While we all greatly enjoyed the view, I found the layer of smog enveloping the city a bit upsetting. While I knew it was a "smog city" before arriving, I didn't realize the extent of the problem. Fortunately, it hasn't bothered me physically. It has, however, really complicated my efforts to photograph the mountains. Grrr.
Monday: After about ten minutes of our first lecture or "charla," we realized the "vacation" part of our orientation had ended. It was an absolutely stunning day, but we spent it listening to two long lectures in Chilean Spanish. Obviously, most of us would have enjoyed the opportunity to spend the day exploring, but we did learn a lot from historian Leonardo Leon (who spoke on Chile's indigenous inhabitants) and Veronica Cortinez (who discussed Chilean literature).
Chilean Spanish has proved as challenging as expected. Not only do most Chileans speak very quickly, but their language is peppered with unfamiliar terms and shortened words. Fortunately, most lecturers have spoken relatively slowly in order to be better understood.
Tuesday: More lectures on Chilean history. Fortunately, we were freed from our seventeenth story classroom in order to enjoy lunch at the lively La Vega fish market. The crowded pathways were lined with the freshest seafood I have ever seen including sea urchins and squids still in their swimming form. Then, we stopped at a restaurant and gorged ourselves on huge helpings of seafood including the Paila Marina--a gigantic bowl teeming with more shellfish than anyone seemed able to name.
After lunch, we metaphorically crossed the picket lines in order to tour the national history museum. Most workers were striking, but we somehow managed to procure a tour through the closed museum on Plaza de Armas. While the artifacts proved interesting, I definately prefered strolling through the plaza afterwards and watching old Chileans consumed in chess games and evangelicals screaming about finding salvations.
Wednesday: While the lectures and museum visits have been educational, Wednesday proved to be incredibly eye-opening and disturbing for all. We started the day with a few more mundane charlas on urbanization and labor movements at a local non-governmental organization called ECO that addresses urban development. These certainly reiterated the realities of the poblaciones (essentially slums) lining Santiago, but our tour still proved disturbing.
When arranging the tour, Tufts arranged for a bus to take us to various groups working to improve the conditions in La Legua, an infamous poblacion that endured serious oppression under Pinochet. Seeing such conditions first hand and speaking to individuals enduring them on a daily basis clearly had a major impact on all in our group; the educational benefits of seeing Santiago beyond the relatively affluent regions in which we will live are very clear. However, I was not necessarily comfortable with the format in which we did so. Throughout the tour, it seemed as if we were gawking at the struggles of those living with La Legua through the windows of a tour bus. I, along with some of my peers, also debated whether we should be taking pictures. The tour deeply impacted us and many of us sought to chronicle it for ourselves, but it seemed vaguely inappropriate to look at others and photograph their daily lives as spectators. To reconcile it, I chose to only photograph the vivid political murals, something in whichthe local community should take great pride, as opposed to the inhabitants and shacks. Perhaps if I intern in a Poblacion I will better be able to decide my feelings of bus tours and photographs of the slums when more familiar with the feelings of those living and working there.
Thursday: We continued focusing on the human rights violations occuring under Pinochet by visiting a memorial to victims in Paine. First, however, we stopped by the University of Chile Metro Station in order to see the murals created to chronicle Chilean history. Not only are they simply majestic to look at, but they provided interesting insight into thu subject matter. It should be interesting to meet the artists and see prohibited sections of the mural next week.
Soon, we were enroute to the countryside to visit Paine, a rural village with the highest percentage of disappeared in Chile. Both the victims' families and a stunning memorial demonstrated that the nation has yet to fully recover from the wounds inflicted under Pinochet.
To lighten the mood, we followed the memorial with a visit to Santa Rita vineyard, one of the best in Chile. Upon arrival, we enjoyed a glass of both merlot and sauvignon blanc along with some empanadas on the patio. Believe the hype, Chilean wine is truely amazing, especially the sauvignon. Once invited to the dining room, we received an salmon appetizer, lamb and potato entree, and a raspberry dessert along with glasses of chardonnay and a cabernet sauvignon. The latter is widely considered the vineyard's specialty, but I was definately partial to the sauvignon blanc. We followed the meal by touring the winery and enjoying salsa and coala (unsure of the spelling) performances by some talent Tufts students and vineyard staff.
Pictures will be posted soon for anyone dedicated or bored enough to read the entirety of my epic chronicle.
Christy
The flight itself was relatively painless minus the massive headache plaguing me for much of the second leg of the trip. American Airlines even came through regarding their TV choices...well, kinda. The Office and 30 Rock initially seemed like pretty solid choices. By the third time they replayed each episode, however, I never wanted to hear the terms "PPC" or "Generallisimo" ever again. Given the number of empty seats dotting the plane, we were luckily able to sprawl out and doze through most of the night. By sunrise, we had landed in Santiago, and, with the exception of a jar of honey, all made it through customs unharmed.
The next few moments marked the beginning of the whirlwind of sightseeing and lectures that have defined our orientation experience. It is, unfortunately, impossible for me to adequately recount everything that occured throughout the first few days. So, I've decided to briefly summarize some of the most exciting events each day.
Saturday: Realizing that many had not slept well on the plane, Carmen Gloria allowed us most of the day to relax in our hostel. We were, however, too excited to remain inside and many of us decided to roam the city. Fortunately, our hostel is situated relatively near many of Santiago's most prominent tourist attractions. Without a map or any guide whatsoever, we stumbled upon La Moneda and Plaza de Armas along with a ridiculous number of shoe stores and dozens and dozens of stray dogs. We also stopped for our first tastes of Chilean cuisine and enjoyed empanadas de pollo y pino. Little did we know that this food would become a staple appetizer throughout the next few weeks.
Sunday: As we had no organized activities until noon, several of us formed the mistakenly-titled "equipaje a" and went for a brief run in the morning. We discovered a nearby park in which we were joined by several stray dogs eager to race us down the area paths. At noon, we were joined by our faculty advisor for a peasant lunch at "Mi Rancho," in an outlying suburb of the city. The pastel de chocle, a thick dish consisting of numerous meats and corn meal, proved delicious but overwhelmingly large. We followed the meal with a quick visit to Cerro San Cristobal, a park atop the largest hill in Santiago. Like the enormous statue of the Virgin Mary, we looked down upon the sprawling city and the surrounding mountains. Santiago is very expansive, as most of the city's six million residents live in relatively short buildings. I believe, correct me if I'm wrong EPIICers, that it could be described as a "horizontal city." While we all greatly enjoyed the view, I found the layer of smog enveloping the city a bit upsetting. While I knew it was a "smog city" before arriving, I didn't realize the extent of the problem. Fortunately, it hasn't bothered me physically. It has, however, really complicated my efforts to photograph the mountains. Grrr.
Monday: After about ten minutes of our first lecture or "charla," we realized the "vacation" part of our orientation had ended. It was an absolutely stunning day, but we spent it listening to two long lectures in Chilean Spanish. Obviously, most of us would have enjoyed the opportunity to spend the day exploring, but we did learn a lot from historian Leonardo Leon (who spoke on Chile's indigenous inhabitants) and Veronica Cortinez (who discussed Chilean literature).
Chilean Spanish has proved as challenging as expected. Not only do most Chileans speak very quickly, but their language is peppered with unfamiliar terms and shortened words. Fortunately, most lecturers have spoken relatively slowly in order to be better understood.
Tuesday: More lectures on Chilean history. Fortunately, we were freed from our seventeenth story classroom in order to enjoy lunch at the lively La Vega fish market. The crowded pathways were lined with the freshest seafood I have ever seen including sea urchins and squids still in their swimming form. Then, we stopped at a restaurant and gorged ourselves on huge helpings of seafood including the Paila Marina--a gigantic bowl teeming with more shellfish than anyone seemed able to name.
After lunch, we metaphorically crossed the picket lines in order to tour the national history museum. Most workers were striking, but we somehow managed to procure a tour through the closed museum on Plaza de Armas. While the artifacts proved interesting, I definately prefered strolling through the plaza afterwards and watching old Chileans consumed in chess games and evangelicals screaming about finding salvations.
Wednesday: While the lectures and museum visits have been educational, Wednesday proved to be incredibly eye-opening and disturbing for all. We started the day with a few more mundane charlas on urbanization and labor movements at a local non-governmental organization called ECO that addresses urban development. These certainly reiterated the realities of the poblaciones (essentially slums) lining Santiago, but our tour still proved disturbing.
When arranging the tour, Tufts arranged for a bus to take us to various groups working to improve the conditions in La Legua, an infamous poblacion that endured serious oppression under Pinochet. Seeing such conditions first hand and speaking to individuals enduring them on a daily basis clearly had a major impact on all in our group; the educational benefits of seeing Santiago beyond the relatively affluent regions in which we will live are very clear. However, I was not necessarily comfortable with the format in which we did so. Throughout the tour, it seemed as if we were gawking at the struggles of those living with La Legua through the windows of a tour bus. I, along with some of my peers, also debated whether we should be taking pictures. The tour deeply impacted us and many of us sought to chronicle it for ourselves, but it seemed vaguely inappropriate to look at others and photograph their daily lives as spectators. To reconcile it, I chose to only photograph the vivid political murals, something in whichthe local community should take great pride, as opposed to the inhabitants and shacks. Perhaps if I intern in a Poblacion I will better be able to decide my feelings of bus tours and photographs of the slums when more familiar with the feelings of those living and working there.
Thursday: We continued focusing on the human rights violations occuring under Pinochet by visiting a memorial to victims in Paine. First, however, we stopped by the University of Chile Metro Station in order to see the murals created to chronicle Chilean history. Not only are they simply majestic to look at, but they provided interesting insight into thu subject matter. It should be interesting to meet the artists and see prohibited sections of the mural next week.
Soon, we were enroute to the countryside to visit Paine, a rural village with the highest percentage of disappeared in Chile. Both the victims' families and a stunning memorial demonstrated that the nation has yet to fully recover from the wounds inflicted under Pinochet.
To lighten the mood, we followed the memorial with a visit to Santa Rita vineyard, one of the best in Chile. Upon arrival, we enjoyed a glass of both merlot and sauvignon blanc along with some empanadas on the patio. Believe the hype, Chilean wine is truely amazing, especially the sauvignon. Once invited to the dining room, we received an salmon appetizer, lamb and potato entree, and a raspberry dessert along with glasses of chardonnay and a cabernet sauvignon. The latter is widely considered the vineyard's specialty, but I was definately partial to the sauvignon blanc. We followed the meal by touring the winery and enjoying salsa and coala (unsure of the spelling) performances by some talent Tufts students and vineyard staff.
Pictures will be posted soon for anyone dedicated or bored enough to read the entirety of my epic chronicle.
Christy
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