Loving Our Messy and Dysfunctional World

“I tend to like messy dysfunctional countries where people are passionate about things.” - Anthony Bourdain

For the past several days, this phrase from an interview with this outspoken food critic has resonated in my mind. It isn’t particularly eloquent nor provocative; yet, I cannot forget the words as they speak to many of my more recent experiences in Santiago.

Generally speaking, Chile should not be considered a “messy” or “dysfunctional” country. As discussed in previous posts, it boasts a flourishing economy, reliable infrastructure, and many of the other hallmarks of a “developed” country. Yet, a surprisingly large proportion of the population does not have access to these institutions (Chile does, after all, boast on the largest gaps between the rich and the poor in the world as measured by the GINI index). The differences between the resources enjoyed by those living in generally wealthy neighborhoods and those relegated the poor communities on the fringe of the city continues to shock me whenever I venture to either my internship.

Despite my anger at the inequalities facing my students, I eagerly look forward to my treks to the school in La Granja each week and I love every moment that I spend there. The poverty, disparity, and challenges obviously enrage me, but students‘ energy and curiosity continues to inspire me. Whether working 60 hours a week at Lider (which is owned by Wal Mart by the way)or trying to raise a child at fifteen, the students somehow manage to confront these challenges without forgetting to laugh or losing their curiosity about the world around them.

To succeed, these students must employ the passion described by Bourdain in the aforementioned quote. Absolutely nothing will be given to them. Similarly, children from more privileged backgrounds earn their achievements, but don’t quite need the same spirit. It’s almost as if the wealthier students are running the 5k on the track; your muscles scream in pain and it takes effort, but it’s a controlled, planned trek. Those from more marginalized communities, on the other hand, are competing in the 5k cross country race. Rather than a smooth, predictable surface, each turn can bring another mountain, some unexpected roots, or a small river. Given the route, they need a certain passion and spirit not always found in other communities and, like Bourdain, this attracts me to communities that may not always be considered developed.

That being said, however desirable this spirit, it should not need to exist and the global community must begin to address the disparities between the wealthiest and poorest neighborhoods in Santiago and the world. Such passion can obviously grow without such deprivation.

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When not teaching English, my days have overflowed with both the routine and some extraordinary opportunities. Classes consume most of my week, although I still find time to pretend I can salsa, meander through the city in my running shoes, devour too much white bread and palta at the nightly once, and laugh with friends. I cannot believe that I only have a few short weeks left with them (although it is not “if I return” it is “when I return“…just to clarify).

And interspersed amongst the habitual activities are the extraordinary ones (although I would argue that the daily routine may in many ways prove more memorable). A few weeks ago, I represented Fundación Paraguaya at a conference on multi-dimensional poverty held in Santiago. Several experts debated what it means to be poor (consensus…it isn’t just economic. duh), before assessing various means used measure it around the world that can be applied both objectively and across cultures. The speakers hailed from bodies as varied the United Nations, the Chilean government, and TUFTS UNIVERSITY. Well, Fletcher. But that’s part of Tufts…right?

I’ve also had the chance to escape the city and explore the Chilean countryside. A friend’s professor recently commented that all of Chile’s development is centered around it’s highways (which obviously run from the north to south given the country’s geography) and this is understandably true. Stepping away from the highways is like stepping back in time; the countryside is truly another world and unsurprisingly a much less developed one. On a recent Tufts trip to Coinco and Donihue, we explored much of this countryside and took part in traditional crafts such as chamanto weaving and the baking of pan amasado. While the artisan work proved interesting, the devastating wounds left on these communities from the terremoto remain some of my biggest memories. Walking around Santiago on a daily basis, it is easy to forget the disaster that rocked Chile only a few months ago. Yet, for many living in rural communities especially in the south, the devastation is a daily reality. Hundreds, if not thousands, are still without homes as the winter rains have begun to roll in (and those living in temporary houses have unfortunately discovered that temporary housing does not necessarily denote a roof that doesn’t leak or good construction).

The countryside isn’t devastated in its entirety however. I also spent a weekend in the Termas de Chillan, or an exclusive ski resort area nestled among some Andean volcanoes. We arrived a little to early to do any skiing, but did enjoy the exquisite views and the first snow fall of the season. Although it is cold in Santiago, it never snows so it was nice to enjoy some of the powdery white fluff that I avoided by spending the northern hemisphere’s winter in the steamy tropical heat of Paraguay.

Pictures, have of course, been posted on Picasa…po.

And a quick note regarding my lack of posts: I’m simply too busy and given the rapid decay of my English skills lately, it isn’t quite as easy for me to write in English anymore. Some things, such as terremotos and palta, that never really affected my life in the USofA have forever been converted into Spanish concepts for me!