Is a Coup like Capture the Flag...Che?

After roughly spending nearly fifty hours cramped on a bus, devouring several pounds of barbeque every night, and struggling to master the complexities of tango, we finally returned from Argentina. We could not rest, however, since Chile celebrates its independence and army on September 18 and 19; joyous festivities and pandemonium obviously filled the city. As students of Chile and its culture, we were "obligated" to join the mayhem and enjoy the balmy spring weather and celebrate nuestra nueva patria.

The festivities, which I will elaborate on later, proved to be a phenomenal ending to an excellent break spent exploring Argentina. Throughout our ten day trek through Argentina, we visited three unique cities: Mendoza, Cordoba, and Buenos Aires. Each proved incredible, and, not to be too cliche, but I truely wish we had the opportunity to spend significantly more time in each place.

Mendoza: After living in Santiago for several months, Mendoza barely seems large enough to constitute a "city" as it only boasts a population of slightly more than 100,000. Regardless, the desert town overflows with energy..and wine from the surrounding vineyards.

We arrived in the city just before sunset Wednesday night. Hungry, we almost immediately began searching for somewhere to eat dinner only to discover that the desired restaurant did not serve anyone until 8.30. The siesta schedule, it seems, is taken much more seriously in Argentina than in the Chilean capital. We, therefore, spent awhile exploring the downtown streets and Plaza Independencia before finally enjoying an excellant buffet with incredible Argentinian barbaque. Que Rico!


Exhausted from both overeating and traveling, we collapsed into our beds shortly thereafter in order to wake up early the next day to explore the surrounding vineyards. I chose to wake up even earlier in order to run through the massive Parque San Martin. It should have been an excellant experience: lakes, statues, trees, brilliant views of the Andes and the highest peak in the western hemisphere; unfortunately, a dog bit my leg shortly into the jaunt (Not severely. He didn't break the skin, but I was still a bit unnerved by the experience). It's a bit ironic considering Santiago boasts many more strays than Mendoza, yet I have never had a problem there.

Anyways, we soon ventured the the countryside surrounding Mendoza to explore the various vineyards dotting the region aboard rented bikes. Although I'm still unable to discern the nuances of each wine (AKA the hint of oak or dash of orange), it still proved absolutely delicious. Yet, the wineries may actually have been overshadowed by our last stop...a chocolate factory. Samples were, of course, provided!

Bikes and wine provided an excellent opportunity to relax in the midst of the semester, but the real highlight of our trip to Mendoza was the trip from Santiago to the Argentine city. As per the recommendation of most of our host families, we chose to undertake the eight hour trek during the day in order to enjoy the mountain views throughout. While I took numerous picture of the craggy peaks along the border and their transformation into redrock desert, none fully capture the beauty of this largely desolate region.

Cordoba: After a much less scenic over night bus ride across the pampa to Cordoba, we arrived in the city early Friday morning. Although its only ten hours from Mendoza, it seemed as if Cordoba was an entire world away. Its overwhelmingly dirty, dusty, and chaotic. These words are not generally considered to be particularly positive, but I honestly liked the city more than Mendoza. Its vibrantly alive; while we spent most of our time here touring the more famous sights, it had this contagious energy. Even after barely sleeping aboard the bus, I just couldn't bring myself to take a nap.

Friday, we meandered through the local bookfair, shops, and visited several sights including the Cabildo, Manzana de los Jesuitas, the crypts, and numerous extravagant cathedrals. These churches seemed especially decadent when contrasted with the relatively poor city nearby. Wouldn't the God I discussed in religious education as a child prefer if church funds aided the impoverished instead of creating overly elaborate places of worship? I'm relatively unaware of Cordoba's history, but I cannot believe that the city ever enjoyed enough affluence that all lived comfortably so money could go to building such churches.

Rather than eating a resturant that evening, we attended an Argentinian barbeque at the hostel that night. Great food (Cordoba is, after all, an important hub in the local steak market) and even more entertaining conversation with fellow guests from around the world. Many had traveled extensively in Latin America and offered many suggestions. Although these varied, there was consensus that Colombia is definately the place to go. Maybe its time to start planning another trip?

Saturday, we continued our whirlwind trek through the city in the morning and visited yet another Cathedral - Los Capuchines. Like the others, it boasted stunning artwork and sculpture. Yet, it boasts one major "error." While there is clearly a spot for a second steeple, the architect purposely omitted it in order to create an imperfect cathedral. In his eyes, only God could create something perfect, so he had to purposely err. There may be a problem with his logic though- if he had to intentionally make a mistake to avoid perfection, then he is clearly capable of achieving it. If only God can create something faultless, then is he equating himself to God since he too could create the perfect cathedral if he so desired?

After visiting the religious site, we visited a more secular architectural gem: The Palacio Ferreya (now an art museum), before settling in the expansive Parque Sarimiento for a relaxing afternoon sunbathing on a dock, feeding the ducks, and people watching. While it was enjoyable, it was a bit disappointing to discover that the large green swath on the map was actually just dirt in person. Not so pretty, but probably a lot more economical than trying the irrigate hundreds of acres in the relatively arid pampa.

As the sun set, we travelled to a nearby artisan market to meander through hundreds of stalls selling leather goods, jewelry, antiques, etc. before once again hoping onto an overnight bus--this time destined to go to Buenos Aires.

Buenos Aires: Remember the governor of South Carolina who had an affair in Buenos Aires? While the cheating obviously appalls me, only a few minutes in the city demonstrated why he could not stay away from the metropolis itself. It teems with a vibrant culture, great food, and so much to explore.

After our arrival Sunday morning, Molly, a Tufts student who is studying in BA, graciously gave us a tour of the city that included an antiques market, street performers, a flamenco show, Plaza de Mayo (pronounced Ma-jo in Argentina), La Casa Rosada (pink presidential palace), El Obelisco, Calle 9 de Julio (With 18 lanes, its the widest street in the world), another craft market, Recoleta Cemetery (A maze of tombs including that of Eva Peron) and Floralis Generica ( A steel flower opening in daytime and closing at night).

While the whirlwind tour obviously gave us a great look at many of the city's most famous landmarks, the highlight of the day actually came after dinner. We live and ate in San Telmo, a district known as the birthplace of Tango. When walking outside, we discovered a Milonga, or tango dance party, in a park. Unlike the other places we visited, it was not overrun by tourists. Rather it was simply a collection of Argentineans having a great time underneath the stars. Needless to say, we joined in, struggled with the complexities of tango, and met some rather interesting Argentinean dance partners.



Monday, we ventured to the upper class comuna of Palermo to visit the Botanical Gardens, Plaza Italia, Plaza Serrano, and just relax in a park for the afternoon. Once night fell, we attended a drum show full of energy and rhythm. Bakan!

Tuesday, we traveled to the most famous calle in Buenos Aires: El Caminato. Colorful houses lines the road brimming with painters, tango dancers, etc. While this may try to reflect its historical past, it now boasts a distinctly "tourist" vibe. In fact, I honestly felt as if I was in Orlando walking through Disney World. While our group agreed that this dynamic is far from ideal, it poses interesting questions about the effect of tourism on specific cultures and poverty. The neighborhood was, in my eyes, nearly ruined by its focus on travelers, but this concentration most likely enabled residents to make a living in what is one of the poorest sections of the city.

Disappointed with El Caminato, we soon returned to Plaza de Mayo to further explore and visit a nearby coffee shop that remains unchanged from the early twentieth century. I'm not sure what was better: real non-Nes Cafe coffee or the decor and adorable doormen.The coffee did prove to be an excellant albeit pricey choice since we went to a dance club for salsa lessons and some dancing that night.

Unable to sleep late, I arose early and ran through BA in the early AM on Wednesday (And by early I mean 8:30). I somehow found my way into a nearby nature preserve and explored the wetlands abutting the ocean before pausing to enjoy some incredible ocean views. In the distance I spotted a bobbing grey object moving across the horizon. I'd like to believe it was a whale...but maybe I'm a tad bit optimistic.

By lunchtime, I had joined my fellow travelers' to visit Plaza San Martin, view the tour reminiscent on England's Big Ben (more European influence in the city), and picnic in the grass. Eventually, we tore ourselves away from our comfortable perch on the green and wandered through Puerto Madero, visited a historical battleship, and ended the day with a stop at the MALBA (also known as the Museo Arte Latinoamericano de Buenos Aires).I enjoy art, especially pieces with a strong political message. Yet, even I was baffled and slightly bored by the sheer number of purely abstract pieces in the museum. Perhaps I'm simply not able to truely appreciate the brilliance found in a green canvas with and orange zigzag. Or, more cynically, maybe the artists' gained recognition simply because of their connections or luck. Perhaps their works actually lacks any characteristics that fully distinguish it from a toddlers' fingerpaintings or other lesser known abstract pieces? On the bright side, the museum also included selected works by some of my favorite artists including Diego Rivera and Freida Kahlo.

The next morning, we awoke to pouring rain on our final day in Buenos Aires. Nevertheless, we still ventured outside the hostel to view the national congress (and plot our own coup/game of capture the flag), surrounding square, and the "March of the Mothers." For the past thirty years, the women have united each Thursday in the Plaza de Mayo in order to peacefully demand answers regarding the disappearances of their sons under the military regime. It was smaller than anticipated, but moving. The peaceful women adorned in white handkerchiefs contrasted sharply with an unrelated rally across the square. The other protest, which was surrounded by countless police in full riot gear, loudly declared its views while plastered in black and red. An interesting contrast both aesthetically and theoretically that posed some interesting questions about the nature of protests and the whether ends ever justify radical means.

This question is especially compelling given Che's affiliation with Argentina (it's his homeland), and the very evident support of the guerilla throughout the country. His name has even been adopted as an equivalent to the english "man" or "dude" at the end of a sentence. Before we could observe much, however, we had to jump on the subtre (Argentine word for metro) to return to the bus station for the LONG trek home.

By the time we returned to Santiago, I just wanted to climb into my bed and sleep for days. Unfortunately, as an aspiring Chilean, I had to celebrate las fiestas patrias, but more about the weekend next time (and pics too)

Ciao!