After spending far too many hours wedged onto a bus, we finally arrived in San Pedro de Atacama slightly before noon on February 27, 2010. I had barely slept throughout the past week, but still could not suppress a smile when looking at my surroundings consisting of arid desert and snow-capped volcanoes scrapping the sky. To put it simply, it was absolutely stunning.
Our earth, unfortunately, is not only beautiful but incredibly dangerous as well. Earlier that morning, an earthquake measuring 8.8 (the fifth largest quake ever recorded) on the Richter scale had rattled much of Chile and destroying countless lives. A series of tsunamis further terrorized Chileans living in costal regions and nearly obliterated numerous towns. To date, the death toll reaches into the hundreds and the whereabouts of hundreds of others remain unknown.
Given the magnitude of the natural destruction, it is mind-boggling that many consider the greatest tragedy to be one of human origin: the looting plaguing Concepcion in the chaos following the quake. Both individuals and bands of thieves stole everything from clothing to electronics from both homes and stores in the city. One major department store was burned to the ground.
Luckily, we did not feel the quake itself nor witness any looting or mayhem, but the impact of the disaster affected our return to Santiago and will most likely continue to impact our experiences throughout the rest of the semester. Physically, Santiago is relatively unharmed. The majority of buildings and houses remain standing due to stringent building codes; water and electricity have since returned to most neighborhoods.
Yet, it is still a wounded city. Many report being unable to sleep at night. Even the smallest aftershocks ( a daily occurrence) trigger fearful reactions in many residents, although they should be accustomed to small disturbances as they live in seismically active city. Work has since resumed and classes are about t begin, but all has definitely not returned to normal.
Not only has the quake revealed the fears of the city, but it has also demonstrated the resolve of both Santiago and the entire nation. It is impossible to walk even three blocks without being implored to donate some non-perishable food items or a bottle of shampoo. Money is, of course, needed as well and Chileans exhibited their generosity during a recent telethon in which they raised $60,000,000, doubling organizers’ goal of $30,000,000.
The support extends beyond the material, of course. Nearly all of the busses clogging the city’s streets sport painted windows declaring “Vamos Chile” or “Fuerza Chile.” And, perhaps I am imagining it, but I have seen a definite surge in Chilean soccer jerseys and other such patriotic attire in the streets.
Without a doubt, the earthquake, tsumanis, and subsequent looting were tragic, but such overwhelming solidarity and generosity proves that Chile will most certainly be able to rebuild and will most likely become a stronger nation than ever before.
FUERZA CHILE!
(The earthquake occurred during the final days of an incredible trip through Peru and the Chilean desert. I chose to discuss the quake as it is obviously an event that has had and will have a huge impact on my host country. A blog or novel chronicling our trip will be written soon!)
9.2.10
Sólo Quiero Ver
Don’t I have the right to be able to see five meters in front of me?
While my imperfect eyesight has been corrected by contact lenses, I still find myself crashing into walls and carefully scaling the stairs nearly every night. Why? Constant power outages have been continually plaguing Asunción. Although the power has never been particularly reliable in this city, a recent heat wave ( 45 degrees Celsius nearly every day. YIKES) and a consequent spike in air conditioning usage amongst those lucky enough to have such systems have overwhelmed the electrical system causing frequent black-outs.
Ironically, Paraguay boasts joint-ownership of the second largest hydroelectric dam in the world (as discussed in my last post). It just lacks adequate infrastructure to transport the electricity throughout the country, making black-outs common. Not only are they extremely annoying, but they also greatly hinder workplace productivity. At Fundación Paraguaya, and the majority of other businesses in the country I believe, the majority of the staff work on desktop computers. Power outages, therefore, generally signify several hours of wasted time. How can a developing economy expect to flourish if its businesses cannot even enjoy uninterrupted workdays? It seems obvious that the Paraguayan government and the company controlling the distribution of electricity (ANDE) must invest in more power lines. However, there is no money for such a costly investment. It’s a catch-22; the economy cannot grow due to a lack of infrastructures and, consequently, the government cannot raise enough money to facilitate the construction of such resources.
The link between infrastructure and sight extends beyond the power lines. Last Thursday, I attended a women’s committee meeting in which the group addressed safety concerns in their neighborhood. They planned to paint the telephone poles and trees lining the road white. Although not necessarily attractive, the paint serves to warn drivers of their existence if driving after dark. Street lights don’t exist in this neighborhood after all.
Given the extreme heat, the project went surprisingly well. I was slightly disappointed that the majority of the women briefly participated before relaxing under a tree to drink terere while Fundación Paraguaya staff and their children continued to work. Yet, the kids clearly had an excellent time and it was interesting to watch them take ownership of the project and their neighborhood. In fact, their involvement and investment in the work may be an unintended benefit of Proyecto Limpieza in Mariano Roque Alonso.
Friday, I again ventured outside Casa Matriz. Rather than trekking to another office in the countryside, I had the opportunity to meet with two women credited with leading the Women’s Rights Movement in Paraguay. For several hours, we snacked on pastries, sipped tea from an antique tea set, and chatted about their past work, their goals, and their personal stories of life in a machista society. Although I frequently mention astonishing statistics regarding gender equality (or the lack thereof) in Paraguay, the women’s rights movement has clearly made significant strides. For instance, only a few decades ago children borne by unmarried women could not even attend school. Relatively recent legislation, fortunately, explicitly gives such children (and all women equal rights) but ingrained cultural attitudes remain pervasive in some parts of the country.
While my imperfect eyesight has been corrected by contact lenses, I still find myself crashing into walls and carefully scaling the stairs nearly every night. Why? Constant power outages have been continually plaguing Asunción. Although the power has never been particularly reliable in this city, a recent heat wave ( 45 degrees Celsius nearly every day. YIKES) and a consequent spike in air conditioning usage amongst those lucky enough to have such systems have overwhelmed the electrical system causing frequent black-outs.
Ironically, Paraguay boasts joint-ownership of the second largest hydroelectric dam in the world (as discussed in my last post). It just lacks adequate infrastructure to transport the electricity throughout the country, making black-outs common. Not only are they extremely annoying, but they also greatly hinder workplace productivity. At Fundación Paraguaya, and the majority of other businesses in the country I believe, the majority of the staff work on desktop computers. Power outages, therefore, generally signify several hours of wasted time. How can a developing economy expect to flourish if its businesses cannot even enjoy uninterrupted workdays? It seems obvious that the Paraguayan government and the company controlling the distribution of electricity (ANDE) must invest in more power lines. However, there is no money for such a costly investment. It’s a catch-22; the economy cannot grow due to a lack of infrastructures and, consequently, the government cannot raise enough money to facilitate the construction of such resources.
The link between infrastructure and sight extends beyond the power lines. Last Thursday, I attended a women’s committee meeting in which the group addressed safety concerns in their neighborhood. They planned to paint the telephone poles and trees lining the road white. Although not necessarily attractive, the paint serves to warn drivers of their existence if driving after dark. Street lights don’t exist in this neighborhood after all.
Given the extreme heat, the project went surprisingly well. I was slightly disappointed that the majority of the women briefly participated before relaxing under a tree to drink terere while Fundación Paraguaya staff and their children continued to work. Yet, the kids clearly had an excellent time and it was interesting to watch them take ownership of the project and their neighborhood. In fact, their involvement and investment in the work may be an unintended benefit of Proyecto Limpieza in Mariano Roque Alonso.
Friday, I again ventured outside Casa Matriz. Rather than trekking to another office in the countryside, I had the opportunity to meet with two women credited with leading the Women’s Rights Movement in Paraguay. For several hours, we snacked on pastries, sipped tea from an antique tea set, and chatted about their past work, their goals, and their personal stories of life in a machista society. Although I frequently mention astonishing statistics regarding gender equality (or the lack thereof) in Paraguay, the women’s rights movement has clearly made significant strides. For instance, only a few decades ago children borne by unmarried women could not even attend school. Relatively recent legislation, fortunately, explicitly gives such children (and all women equal rights) but ingrained cultural attitudes remain pervasive in some parts of the country.
3.2.10
"If It Doesn't Hurt, It's Not a Sunburn"
Dear Travel Guides,
Do you mean to suggest that there are only seven wonders of the natural world? Do you truely believe that man has only created seven wonders in the modern world?
Love,
A confused backpacker
Perhaps the only thing more ridiculous than the number of "wonder lists" found online is the existence of these lists in the first place. How can anyone attempt to name the seven best sites given the sheer quantity of majestic locales dotting the globe? Why is the Grand Canyon anymore deserving of a spot on this prestigious list than the towering peaks on the Torres del Paine?
Regardless of the absurdity of such lists, the majority of highlighted sites are truly incredible and I had the opportunity to experience both a natural wonder and a modern one this past weekend.
Taking advantage of the vacation days afforded to each intern, I began my trek to Iguazu Falls late Wednesday night to meet Mim and Row the following morning at our hostel. Or more accurately, resort. Unlike typical hostels, this one featured a pool, pool side bar, and game room in addition to the standard dorm rooms and plethora of accents from around the world.
By the time we finished gaping at our surroundings, pretending to play ping-pong, and frolicking in the pool, it was too late to journey to the falls. We consequently dragged ourselves out to bed early Friday morning to maximize our time in the park.
Iguazu Falls. Amazing. Incredible. Phenomenal. Thousands of gallons of water spill over the falls which span nearly two miles along the Argentinean and Brazilian borders. Lush green rainforest surrounds and it teems with wildlife including swarms of butterflies, cotes, lizards, and gigantic spiders. Once we finally tore ourselves away from the falls we trekked through the rainforest until arriving at a small pond fed by a comparatively gentle, albeit tall, waterfall. Hot and tired, we jumped in to escape the oppressive heat. It was, I must admit, a much more enjoyable swim than me and Mim's brief dip in the glacial lake in Torres Del Paine.
Unfortunately, Saturday morning signaled the end of our time together. While my Australian amigos continued onto Salta, I hopped onto an express bus to Paraguay and started my journey home. The trip began with a brief stint in Brazil. Well, almost. The bus passed through the country but we could not disembark unless we stopped at customs and bought a pricey visa. So, I only experienced the nation through a window, but I still get a point in the admittedly stupid game of country collection, right?
After spending roughly an hour in Brazil, we entered Paraguay. Surprisingly, the bus seemingly forgot to stop at customs. If I was simply a local traveler, this wouldn't have been a problem. However, I'll be flying out of Paraguay in a couple weeks and can not do so without either an entry stamp or a large wad of cash to pay the fine. I consequently hopped off the bus on an unknown street corner and meandered through the overflowing streets until finding a customs officer and my stamp.
In the process, I also spotted a casa de cambio. As I still needed to change some Argentine pesos to Guaranis, I stepped inside assuming it was like any other casa de cambio. I was, to put it mildly, wrong. About 8 guards armed with gigantic guns lined the room while numerous men waited to change small fortunes. They dumped bags of pesos, guaranis, and reals on the table in exchange for thick wads of US dollar bills (and by that I mean hundred dollar bills). Each man appeared to leave with enough cash to pay for at least a year of my college education. Needless to say, the banker scoffed at my small fortune of 69 Argentine Pesos (between US$18-US$20). I had to endure a few more smirks from the staff, but at least I left with a handful of Guaranis and some unforeseen insight into the world of money laundering in Latin America.
Still slightly confused by my experiences in the casa de cambio, I began wandering through Ciudad del Este. Although I didn't stay for too long, the city certainly lived up to its reputation as a lawless border city. The informal shops and markets easily dwarfed those of Asuncion's Mercado 4 and its vendors sold everything from cheap electronics to locally-grown produce. Any shops housed within actual buildings were surrounded by armed guards constantly shifting oversized guns and sawed off shot guns from arm to arm. Meanwhile, thousands of people speaking in a mix of Spanish, Portuguese, and Guarani ambled through the stalls.
Although intrigued by the mayhem, I soon hopped onto a bus heading to the local town of Hernandarias. While the town itself proved relatively non-descript, it boasts the second largest hydroelectric power plant in the world: Itaipu Dam. Considered one of the seven man-made wonders of the world, it powers the entirety of Paraguay and upwards of 20% of Brazil. I, of course, took a tour of the facility.
The views of the power plant and river were stunning, but I actually left the facility slightly irritated by the entire experience. Understandably, the dam's operators created a tour designed to celebrate their architectural achievements while completely ignoring more controversial aspects of the project. For instance, no one mentioned that its construction destroyed a series of waterfalls once considered larger and grander than Iguazu Falls. Nor did anyone note that Paraguayans pay ludicrously large amounts for electricity due to an unfair accord with Brazil involving the dam's electricity production. Moreover, rolling blackouts still plague Paraguay. We've already had three today...and its only a little before 7:00.
After spending the next few hours exploring some unremarkable museums and zoos in the area, I finally hoped onto a bus returning to Asuncion eager to spend a night resting in my own bed. My adventure, I foolishly believed, was over. Within fifteen minutes of entering my empty house, I realized I had been sorely mistaken. I had locked the bathroom door when using it. No big deal...right?
Unfortunately, it was a very big deal. The lock managed to break while I was inside and I couldn't escape. I tried everything: picking the lock, screaming, etc. Yet, I was still sitting in the sweltering bathroom almost three hours later when Izas finally returned home. Upon hearing my pleas for help, she too began fighting with the door. After an hour, she finally called the fire department. There was absolutely nothing else we could do.
Although the fire department indicated that they believed it was an emergency (they arrived with lights flashing after all), they didn't charge up the stairs to rescue me until nearly an hour later. Six firefighters kicked down the door at approximately 4:00 AM. Por fin.
Pictures of Iguazu and Itaipu have been posted on Picasa.
Do you mean to suggest that there are only seven wonders of the natural world? Do you truely believe that man has only created seven wonders in the modern world?
Love,
A confused backpacker
Perhaps the only thing more ridiculous than the number of "wonder lists" found online is the existence of these lists in the first place. How can anyone attempt to name the seven best sites given the sheer quantity of majestic locales dotting the globe? Why is the Grand Canyon anymore deserving of a spot on this prestigious list than the towering peaks on the Torres del Paine?
Regardless of the absurdity of such lists, the majority of highlighted sites are truly incredible and I had the opportunity to experience both a natural wonder and a modern one this past weekend.
Taking advantage of the vacation days afforded to each intern, I began my trek to Iguazu Falls late Wednesday night to meet Mim and Row the following morning at our hostel. Or more accurately, resort. Unlike typical hostels, this one featured a pool, pool side bar, and game room in addition to the standard dorm rooms and plethora of accents from around the world.
By the time we finished gaping at our surroundings, pretending to play ping-pong, and frolicking in the pool, it was too late to journey to the falls. We consequently dragged ourselves out to bed early Friday morning to maximize our time in the park.
Iguazu Falls. Amazing. Incredible. Phenomenal. Thousands of gallons of water spill over the falls which span nearly two miles along the Argentinean and Brazilian borders. Lush green rainforest surrounds and it teems with wildlife including swarms of butterflies, cotes, lizards, and gigantic spiders. Once we finally tore ourselves away from the falls we trekked through the rainforest until arriving at a small pond fed by a comparatively gentle, albeit tall, waterfall. Hot and tired, we jumped in to escape the oppressive heat. It was, I must admit, a much more enjoyable swim than me and Mim's brief dip in the glacial lake in Torres Del Paine.
Unfortunately, Saturday morning signaled the end of our time together. While my Australian amigos continued onto Salta, I hopped onto an express bus to Paraguay and started my journey home. The trip began with a brief stint in Brazil. Well, almost. The bus passed through the country but we could not disembark unless we stopped at customs and bought a pricey visa. So, I only experienced the nation through a window, but I still get a point in the admittedly stupid game of country collection, right?
After spending roughly an hour in Brazil, we entered Paraguay. Surprisingly, the bus seemingly forgot to stop at customs. If I was simply a local traveler, this wouldn't have been a problem. However, I'll be flying out of Paraguay in a couple weeks and can not do so without either an entry stamp or a large wad of cash to pay the fine. I consequently hopped off the bus on an unknown street corner and meandered through the overflowing streets until finding a customs officer and my stamp.
In the process, I also spotted a casa de cambio. As I still needed to change some Argentine pesos to Guaranis, I stepped inside assuming it was like any other casa de cambio. I was, to put it mildly, wrong. About 8 guards armed with gigantic guns lined the room while numerous men waited to change small fortunes. They dumped bags of pesos, guaranis, and reals on the table in exchange for thick wads of US dollar bills (and by that I mean hundred dollar bills). Each man appeared to leave with enough cash to pay for at least a year of my college education. Needless to say, the banker scoffed at my small fortune of 69 Argentine Pesos (between US$18-US$20). I had to endure a few more smirks from the staff, but at least I left with a handful of Guaranis and some unforeseen insight into the world of money laundering in Latin America.
Still slightly confused by my experiences in the casa de cambio, I began wandering through Ciudad del Este. Although I didn't stay for too long, the city certainly lived up to its reputation as a lawless border city. The informal shops and markets easily dwarfed those of Asuncion's Mercado 4 and its vendors sold everything from cheap electronics to locally-grown produce. Any shops housed within actual buildings were surrounded by armed guards constantly shifting oversized guns and sawed off shot guns from arm to arm. Meanwhile, thousands of people speaking in a mix of Spanish, Portuguese, and Guarani ambled through the stalls.
Although intrigued by the mayhem, I soon hopped onto a bus heading to the local town of Hernandarias. While the town itself proved relatively non-descript, it boasts the second largest hydroelectric power plant in the world: Itaipu Dam. Considered one of the seven man-made wonders of the world, it powers the entirety of Paraguay and upwards of 20% of Brazil. I, of course, took a tour of the facility.
The views of the power plant and river were stunning, but I actually left the facility slightly irritated by the entire experience. Understandably, the dam's operators created a tour designed to celebrate their architectural achievements while completely ignoring more controversial aspects of the project. For instance, no one mentioned that its construction destroyed a series of waterfalls once considered larger and grander than Iguazu Falls. Nor did anyone note that Paraguayans pay ludicrously large amounts for electricity due to an unfair accord with Brazil involving the dam's electricity production. Moreover, rolling blackouts still plague Paraguay. We've already had three today...and its only a little before 7:00.
After spending the next few hours exploring some unremarkable museums and zoos in the area, I finally hoped onto a bus returning to Asuncion eager to spend a night resting in my own bed. My adventure, I foolishly believed, was over. Within fifteen minutes of entering my empty house, I realized I had been sorely mistaken. I had locked the bathroom door when using it. No big deal...right?
Unfortunately, it was a very big deal. The lock managed to break while I was inside and I couldn't escape. I tried everything: picking the lock, screaming, etc. Yet, I was still sitting in the sweltering bathroom almost three hours later when Izas finally returned home. Upon hearing my pleas for help, she too began fighting with the door. After an hour, she finally called the fire department. There was absolutely nothing else we could do.
Although the fire department indicated that they believed it was an emergency (they arrived with lights flashing after all), they didn't charge up the stairs to rescue me until nearly an hour later. Six firefighters kicked down the door at approximately 4:00 AM. Por fin.
Pictures of Iguazu and Itaipu have been posted on Picasa.
25.1.10
"Tranquilo, Tranquilo"
In the months following my arrival in South America, I enjoyed countless exciting adventures, hours of laughter, and some excellent empanadas. It was, however, also a difficult adjustment in some ways. I moved from a nation in which I could easily express myself to a country in which even the most basic conversations could be frusteratingly difficult. Even today, after 6+ months of Spanish immersion, I still struggle to express nuanced thoughts. My Spanish vocabulary remains somewhat more limited than my English one after all.
Words can obviously be quite powerful. They suggest mood; they convey attitude. Most importantly perhaps, they imply a manner of looking at the world. For instance, I've noticed differences in how most individuals from the United States (myself included) and Chileans/Paraguayan refer to mundane weekends in which they simply relax at home or complete other routine activities as opposed to doing something out of the ordinary. Those from the United States generally say that such a weekend was "boring." In Chile and Paraguay, on the other hand, spending Saturday and Sunday relaxing at home is considered "tranquilo" or calm. Obviously the second has a much more positive connotation.
Do those from the United States care less about their friends and families than their Latin American counterparts? I would argue that we attach similar value to those around us. We just have a tendency to expect more excitement in our lives. Why? My immediate hypothesis involved media influences, but those same forces inundate Latin Americans as well. Unfortunately, I cannot pinpoint any other "answer," but this slightly different attitude has already infiltrated my mindset.
After all, when asked about last weekend, I responded tranquilo. Nothing was particularly remarkable, but it was quite enjoyable nonetheless. Friday night brought an asadito with the other interns (from Spain and Italia) and a few Paraguayan friends. Saturday involved a movie marathon and some shopping in the markets of Luque (a suburb of Asuncion), which may very well be my future home thanks to the abundance of heladerias selling two scoops of scrumptious flavors for only 20 cents. Needless to say, I stopped at least once. Once again, I journeyed outside Asuncion to the suburb of Ita on Sunday to sit in a charming little park and sip terere with some friends while fending off overzealous vendors selling everything from bolos (friend puffs of dough filled with dulce de leche) to mosto helado (sugar cane juice. think rum before it ferments).
In the end, a mundane yet excellent weekend that fully embodies the word tranquilo.
Words can obviously be quite powerful. They suggest mood; they convey attitude. Most importantly perhaps, they imply a manner of looking at the world. For instance, I've noticed differences in how most individuals from the United States (myself included) and Chileans/Paraguayan refer to mundane weekends in which they simply relax at home or complete other routine activities as opposed to doing something out of the ordinary. Those from the United States generally say that such a weekend was "boring." In Chile and Paraguay, on the other hand, spending Saturday and Sunday relaxing at home is considered "tranquilo" or calm. Obviously the second has a much more positive connotation.
Do those from the United States care less about their friends and families than their Latin American counterparts? I would argue that we attach similar value to those around us. We just have a tendency to expect more excitement in our lives. Why? My immediate hypothesis involved media influences, but those same forces inundate Latin Americans as well. Unfortunately, I cannot pinpoint any other "answer," but this slightly different attitude has already infiltrated my mindset.
After all, when asked about last weekend, I responded tranquilo. Nothing was particularly remarkable, but it was quite enjoyable nonetheless. Friday night brought an asadito with the other interns (from Spain and Italia) and a few Paraguayan friends. Saturday involved a movie marathon and some shopping in the markets of Luque (a suburb of Asuncion), which may very well be my future home thanks to the abundance of heladerias selling two scoops of scrumptious flavors for only 20 cents. Needless to say, I stopped at least once. Once again, I journeyed outside Asuncion to the suburb of Ita on Sunday to sit in a charming little park and sip terere with some friends while fending off overzealous vendors selling everything from bolos (friend puffs of dough filled with dulce de leche) to mosto helado (sugar cane juice. think rum before it ferments).
In the end, a mundane yet excellent weekend that fully embodies the word tranquilo.
18.1.10
La Vida Abajo del Sol Paraguayo
When blogging about both Chile and Paraguay, I tend to focus on my adventures and events varying from the expected norms. Rarely, if ever, do I discuss the mundane routine of everyday life. Yet, its the daily activities that prove the most educational. Living in a foreign country is, after all, a very different experience than visiting in the midst of a whirlwind vacation. Yet, it's still an adventure and I've found that I never know what to expect.
Transportation in Asuncion may be the best example. Like most other large metropolises, the city boasts a system of diesel-spewing public buses with routes denoted by numbers. I cannot, however, determine whether there is any way to actually know which buses go where without asking the drivers. There is no list or map posted anywhere online or in the city. This isn't too inconvenient when going somewhere near a main road. If I need to switch buses, however, it can be impossible. Fortunately, it has given me the opportunity to meet countless bus drivers once I'm hopelessly lost and see numerous parts of the city to which I never would have intentionally ventured. And, I must admit, I often suspect the system is vaguely Harry Potter-esque in that the 31 definately changes its route on Thursdays.
Luckily, I almost always find my way evenutally. While my most frequent destinations (Fundacion Paraguaya's main office, the supermarket, various ice cream shops) lie within walking distance of my house, most of my more interesting adventures occur outside the Villa Mora and Los Laureles neighborhoods. The bus rides are, therefore, necessary and certainly worthwhile.
For instance, last week I had the opportunity to visit the office in Luque, a suburb of Asuncion known for its silver jewelry. I didn't dwell in the city for long though; as soon as I arrived, Mercedes and I trekked into the countryside the meet with a committee de mujeres. While meeting with the Foundacion's clients has become a daily occurance, this trip would leave a particularly strong impression on me.
As soon as we climbed off the colectivo, we were warmly greeted by Marta and ushered to her house. At first,the village seemed relatively well-off, at least by Paraguayan standards. Most of the houses appeared to be made of brick with running water. Yet, Marta's home, as I soon learned, was a shanty built from wood, and tin scraps without running water. Although I have certainly seen poverty throughout the past six months, additional exposure to it still remains somewhat jarring. Perhaps this is a good thing; I'm not numb to it.
After a brief conversation, I learned that Marta's committee was struggling to persuade a woman to pay for her share of the loan. This women, Miguela, was not slacking however. About a month ago, she had fallen ill and could not leave her bed. We, therefore, needed to speak to Miguela before making any recommendations.
Upon arrival at her house, it initially seemed as if Miguela was one of the luckier members of the community. An expansive shaded garden surrounded her neat brick house. Yet, it was soon apparent that this women desperately needed help. As she couldn't leave her bed to open the door, we needed to talk to her through an open window. She quickly explained that she couldn't pay the installment due to her disease. After all, she couldn't sell anything from her room.
As she was clearly desperately ill, I began to wonder why she was not at a hospital. President Lugo recently decreed that all healthcare needs including medicine and surgery would be covered by the state, so she certainly had access. However, I also realized that this access only exists on paper. Without any family except an overworked daughter who just gave birth, Miguela had no one to bring her to the hospital. Walking to the bus about a half mile down the road was certainly not an option.
Even if she did arrive at the hospital, she most likely would not have experienced excellent care. Due to the free healthcare, all public hospitals and clinics are overrun with patients. Newspapers report that hospital have seen a 23% jump in patients since the law was passed. This isn't surprising; thousands of people with long-time medical conditions now have access to treatment. Unfortunately, it also means that anyone hoping for help must arrive around 4:00AM in order to receive a deli number and hope for treatment that day. If time runs out, they must return and wait once again the next day. Given the obvious problems plaguing these hospitals, its unsurprising that anyone with money chooses to utilize private clinics and hospitals.
Universal healthcare does not, therefore, necessarily denote that all can receive medical care when needed. Seeing the system firsthand has made it evident that it is not a successful means of ensuring that all possess the same basic human right to health (or possess the opportunity to enjoy it to the largest extent that is technologically possible). While the word for health and healthcare is the same in spanish (salud), it's becoming very clear that salud =/= salud or free healthcare =/= improved health.
Anyways, we soon needed to return to Marta's house to discuss the situation. It was evident that Miguela was teetering on the edge of death. Yet, accoridng to Fundacion Paraguaya's rules, the committee was still responsible for paying her debt whether she was healthy, sick, or dead. At first, I was appalled. Was Fundacion Paraguaya, ostensibly an organization designed to help the poor, actually going to ask these impoverished women to assume another's debt?
Unfortunately, microfinance is ultimately a business, as the head of Accion pointed out in a recent interview. Although the organizations do provide impoverished communities with the credit necessary to build their economies, they also function like banks. With too much loan foregiveness, they would lose all capital and close. They would also fail in their mission of allowing poorer individuals to eventually access credit through regular banks since no loan officers would trust that the microfinance program functioned like a profitable bank.
Regardless, I left the meeting feeling slightly guilty. Not only had our visit potentially increased each women's financial strain, but we also left a sick women alone in her bed. Guiltily, I asked Mercedes what we could do for Miguela. Nothing, she answered, unless we buy a car and take her to the hospital. Unfortunately, this is not exactly an option. Hopefully, she'll miraculously improve before my next trek out to Luque.
Fortunately, not all my visits are that depressing. We often meet with groups of entrepreneurs who have successfully repaid small loans, expanded their businesses, and our receiving more money to continue the process. They happily show their goods while eagerly beginning the weekly lesson in finanical literacy. Microfinance has, after all, proven very successful in many part of Paraguay.
In addition to meeting with successful committees at work, I also have the opportunity to enjoy la vida paraguaya on a daily basis. Whether wandering through the local farmers' market and sampling the delicious fare, bargaining for exquisite artisan crafts in the open air market downtown, running through the sweltering heat on the Ciclovia or in Parque Nu Guazu, reading in the elegant jardin botanico, or sipping terere during a torrential downpour breaking the aforementioned heat, good times certainly abound. I eagerly await the opportunity to explore more of the city... I just have to find my way on the buses...somehow.
Transportation in Asuncion may be the best example. Like most other large metropolises, the city boasts a system of diesel-spewing public buses with routes denoted by numbers. I cannot, however, determine whether there is any way to actually know which buses go where without asking the drivers. There is no list or map posted anywhere online or in the city. This isn't too inconvenient when going somewhere near a main road. If I need to switch buses, however, it can be impossible. Fortunately, it has given me the opportunity to meet countless bus drivers once I'm hopelessly lost and see numerous parts of the city to which I never would have intentionally ventured. And, I must admit, I often suspect the system is vaguely Harry Potter-esque in that the 31 definately changes its route on Thursdays.
Luckily, I almost always find my way evenutally. While my most frequent destinations (Fundacion Paraguaya's main office, the supermarket, various ice cream shops) lie within walking distance of my house, most of my more interesting adventures occur outside the Villa Mora and Los Laureles neighborhoods. The bus rides are, therefore, necessary and certainly worthwhile.
For instance, last week I had the opportunity to visit the office in Luque, a suburb of Asuncion known for its silver jewelry. I didn't dwell in the city for long though; as soon as I arrived, Mercedes and I trekked into the countryside the meet with a committee de mujeres. While meeting with the Foundacion's clients has become a daily occurance, this trip would leave a particularly strong impression on me.
As soon as we climbed off the colectivo, we were warmly greeted by Marta and ushered to her house. At first,the village seemed relatively well-off, at least by Paraguayan standards. Most of the houses appeared to be made of brick with running water. Yet, Marta's home, as I soon learned, was a shanty built from wood, and tin scraps without running water. Although I have certainly seen poverty throughout the past six months, additional exposure to it still remains somewhat jarring. Perhaps this is a good thing; I'm not numb to it.
After a brief conversation, I learned that Marta's committee was struggling to persuade a woman to pay for her share of the loan. This women, Miguela, was not slacking however. About a month ago, she had fallen ill and could not leave her bed. We, therefore, needed to speak to Miguela before making any recommendations.
Upon arrival at her house, it initially seemed as if Miguela was one of the luckier members of the community. An expansive shaded garden surrounded her neat brick house. Yet, it was soon apparent that this women desperately needed help. As she couldn't leave her bed to open the door, we needed to talk to her through an open window. She quickly explained that she couldn't pay the installment due to her disease. After all, she couldn't sell anything from her room.
As she was clearly desperately ill, I began to wonder why she was not at a hospital. President Lugo recently decreed that all healthcare needs including medicine and surgery would be covered by the state, so she certainly had access. However, I also realized that this access only exists on paper. Without any family except an overworked daughter who just gave birth, Miguela had no one to bring her to the hospital. Walking to the bus about a half mile down the road was certainly not an option.
Even if she did arrive at the hospital, she most likely would not have experienced excellent care. Due to the free healthcare, all public hospitals and clinics are overrun with patients. Newspapers report that hospital have seen a 23% jump in patients since the law was passed. This isn't surprising; thousands of people with long-time medical conditions now have access to treatment. Unfortunately, it also means that anyone hoping for help must arrive around 4:00AM in order to receive a deli number and hope for treatment that day. If time runs out, they must return and wait once again the next day. Given the obvious problems plaguing these hospitals, its unsurprising that anyone with money chooses to utilize private clinics and hospitals.
Universal healthcare does not, therefore, necessarily denote that all can receive medical care when needed. Seeing the system firsthand has made it evident that it is not a successful means of ensuring that all possess the same basic human right to health (or possess the opportunity to enjoy it to the largest extent that is technologically possible). While the word for health and healthcare is the same in spanish (salud), it's becoming very clear that salud =/= salud or free healthcare =/= improved health.
Anyways, we soon needed to return to Marta's house to discuss the situation. It was evident that Miguela was teetering on the edge of death. Yet, accoridng to Fundacion Paraguaya's rules, the committee was still responsible for paying her debt whether she was healthy, sick, or dead. At first, I was appalled. Was Fundacion Paraguaya, ostensibly an organization designed to help the poor, actually going to ask these impoverished women to assume another's debt?
Unfortunately, microfinance is ultimately a business, as the head of Accion pointed out in a recent interview. Although the organizations do provide impoverished communities with the credit necessary to build their economies, they also function like banks. With too much loan foregiveness, they would lose all capital and close. They would also fail in their mission of allowing poorer individuals to eventually access credit through regular banks since no loan officers would trust that the microfinance program functioned like a profitable bank.
Regardless, I left the meeting feeling slightly guilty. Not only had our visit potentially increased each women's financial strain, but we also left a sick women alone in her bed. Guiltily, I asked Mercedes what we could do for Miguela. Nothing, she answered, unless we buy a car and take her to the hospital. Unfortunately, this is not exactly an option. Hopefully, she'll miraculously improve before my next trek out to Luque.
Fortunately, not all my visits are that depressing. We often meet with groups of entrepreneurs who have successfully repaid small loans, expanded their businesses, and our receiving more money to continue the process. They happily show their goods while eagerly beginning the weekly lesson in finanical literacy. Microfinance has, after all, proven very successful in many part of Paraguay.
In addition to meeting with successful committees at work, I also have the opportunity to enjoy la vida paraguaya on a daily basis. Whether wandering through the local farmers' market and sampling the delicious fare, bargaining for exquisite artisan crafts in the open air market downtown, running through the sweltering heat on the Ciclovia or in Parque Nu Guazu, reading in the elegant jardin botanico, or sipping terere during a torrential downpour breaking the aforementioned heat, good times certainly abound. I eagerly await the opportunity to explore more of the city... I just have to find my way on the buses...somehow.
13.1.10
El Amanecer del Año Nuevo
When reflecting on 2009, the first adjective to spring to mind is new. New continents. New languages. New friends.
Fittingly, it also ended with an entirely new experience: a weekend spent on a rural farm in the department of San Pedro. Rather than spending the new year in Asunción, I joined a co-worker on her trek to her parents home roughly 4 hours from the city. Well, four hours in a functioning vehicle. Unfortunately, her car broke down upwards of five times direction, so we spent hours languishing on the side of the road. On the bright side, this provided an excellent opportunity to sample local farmers' produce including memón, acerola, mburukuyu, and carambola.
We finally reached our destination about an hour before midnight. After meeting dozens of family members and promptly forgetting most names, we just relaxed, sipped terere, and prepared for the upcoming festivites. When midnight struck, the hillside erupted in noise. Some launched fireworks; others descended upon a long table overflowing with beef (from a former cow), freshly picked mantioca, and other treats. Regardless of the amount of food being consumed, conversation never ceased. By the end of the meal, I was struggling to learnn some Guarani, fending off marriage requests and trying to explain the significance of Rihanna's song "Polkerface" in Spanish. Looking back at that night nearly two weeks later, I still cannot stop laughing.
As no one tumbled into bed until nearly 2:00 AM at the earliest, I was absolutely stunned when everyone arose before dawn. The cows, after all, still needed to be milked and the crops tended to before it was dangerously hot. By noon, we were all relaxing in the shade of a mango tree, sipping terere, and munching on watermelon while intermittantly venturing into the sun to play fierce games of volleyball and soccer. Slightly before beginning evening chores, we wandered to a neighbor's house for a neighborhood prayer and blessing on the new year. I did not understand a word of the Guarani, but the community sentiment certainly made an impact on me.
Rather than relaxing on the farm during the heat of the following day, we ventured to a nearby river to swim, float in the current, and play even more volleyball while surrounded by the rainforest and swarms of butterflies. Yet another excellent day minus the massive sunburn I acquired.
While I do want to spend some weekends in Asuncion, I ventured from the city once again last weekend. This time, however, I went to the southern border town of Encarnacion. The city itself proved relatively unremarkable. Aging buildings line most roads, dilapidated buses from the 1960s spew black fumes, and omnipresent vendors harrass anyone in their path. Yet, the trip was certainly worthwhile in that I had the opportunity to visit the aging Jesuit ruins in nearby Trinidad and Jesus.
Soon after the Spanish conquered the "new" world, Jesuit missionaries began streaming across the Atlantic in order to convert indigenous groups to Christianity. As part of this process, they built gigantic settlements consisting of churches, homes, farms, and even more churches. The settlements thrived, but fell into disrepair when the missionaries were expelled at the end of the eighteenth century. Today, only the shells of the building survive creating an eerily haunted environment.
Regardless of the settlement's condition, the ruins easily constitute one of the coolest places that I have ever ventured in my life. The sprawling red clay structures contrast sharply with the lush Paraguayan countryside. Moreover, unlike many similar sites, they have not been overrun by the tourist industry. When visiting, there were often no more than 2 or 3 others on each site making it much easier to imagine I was living in the settlement during its heyday.
My time in Paraguay has not solely consisted of travel, however. As expected, I spend the majority of my time at my internship designing a program to educate women to advocate for their own rights. As I enjoy my work, I actually look forward to my short trek to the office each morning, although I admit I prefer the days when my project takes me into the field. Even the simplest tasks often become adventures because, as I am quickly learning, nothing ever goes as expected in Paraguay.
Two weeks ago, for instance, Lourdes and I had a relatively simple assignment. We needed to drive to the village of Villa Ygatimi in the Departmento de Canindeyu, collect a rural microfinance committee's payment and deposit it in the bank before the close of business. Easy, right?
Although we expected a smooth trip, the problems began about 45 kilometers outside Villa Ygatimi in the midst of a small storm. At this point, the only road leading to the village changes into a dirt road. On a sunny day, this certainly isn't a problem as the red clay makes an excellent surface. Rain, however, turns the road into an impassable muddy pit. As the village is located in the rain forest, this is a relatively frequent occurance.
As we needed to collect the money that day, Lourdes and I continued forward anyways. Our progress was slow; we constantly had to climb into the mid to push the car and adjust the tires. Fortunately, we finally arrived at our destination a little dirtier and quite a bit later than expected. Along the way, we saw numerous trucks that were not as lucky. Often from multinational logging companies or other groups extracting the areas resources, the large vehicles simply could not navigate the mud while some of the desperately poor children living in the area sat on the ridges laughing. Poetic justice if you will; the companies take the resources and leave very little of their profits to help the local communities but the children have the last laugh.
Unlike the truckers, we did reach Villa Ygatimi at our destination. Upon arriving, we were warmly welcomed by a rural microfinance committee, or a group of unrelated farmers receiving loans collectively. While each man will receive his own capital, all accept responsibility for the group’s debt. If one man cannot afford his monthly payment, then the others must repay his debt or risk incurring more interest.
In this case, the men needed to pay before December 30, 2009 to avoid incurring more interest. After collecting the money, we gave them the money from their next loan and explained the conditions. Each man actively took an interest in the proceedings by asking questions and determining each man’s monthly payment.
Unfortunately, we needed to end the meeting abruptly in order to deposit their payment. We needed to return along the same seemingly impassable road before the banks closed at 4:00PM. Miraculously, the road had improved significantly throughout the past few hours and we made it back to paved roads in only half the time we needed to arrive. Once we arrived on the asphalt and in the town of Curuguaty, we believed we had succeeded. The clock had just struck 2:00 and the local bank did not close until 4:45 or so the sign suggested. However, as we soon learned, this did not necessarily matter. According to the man inside, the bank closed at 2:00 and there was absolutely no way he could serve us. Would we be able to deposit the money on time?
As there were no other banks with which Fundación Paraguaya has an account in the town, we needed to continue onward and find one that actually helped clients until its posted close. Lourdes soon realized that the nearest one could be found in “nearby” Santani, only two hours away. Although unsure if we could arrive on time, we knew we had to try. Driving just at the speed limit, we hurtled through farmlands, rainforest, and yet another storm. Somehow, we managed to arrive with a few moments to spare after our harrowing trip. SUCCESS.
Not every trip proves as exciting. Regardless, venturing into the field easily constitutes my favorite part of my internship and I cannot wait to embark on more trips in the coming weeks.
Pictures have, of course, been posted.
Fittingly, it also ended with an entirely new experience: a weekend spent on a rural farm in the department of San Pedro. Rather than spending the new year in Asunción, I joined a co-worker on her trek to her parents home roughly 4 hours from the city. Well, four hours in a functioning vehicle. Unfortunately, her car broke down upwards of five times direction, so we spent hours languishing on the side of the road. On the bright side, this provided an excellent opportunity to sample local farmers' produce including memón, acerola, mburukuyu, and carambola.
We finally reached our destination about an hour before midnight. After meeting dozens of family members and promptly forgetting most names, we just relaxed, sipped terere, and prepared for the upcoming festivites. When midnight struck, the hillside erupted in noise. Some launched fireworks; others descended upon a long table overflowing with beef (from a former cow), freshly picked mantioca, and other treats. Regardless of the amount of food being consumed, conversation never ceased. By the end of the meal, I was struggling to learnn some Guarani, fending off marriage requests and trying to explain the significance of Rihanna's song "Polkerface" in Spanish. Looking back at that night nearly two weeks later, I still cannot stop laughing.
As no one tumbled into bed until nearly 2:00 AM at the earliest, I was absolutely stunned when everyone arose before dawn. The cows, after all, still needed to be milked and the crops tended to before it was dangerously hot. By noon, we were all relaxing in the shade of a mango tree, sipping terere, and munching on watermelon while intermittantly venturing into the sun to play fierce games of volleyball and soccer. Slightly before beginning evening chores, we wandered to a neighbor's house for a neighborhood prayer and blessing on the new year. I did not understand a word of the Guarani, but the community sentiment certainly made an impact on me.
Rather than relaxing on the farm during the heat of the following day, we ventured to a nearby river to swim, float in the current, and play even more volleyball while surrounded by the rainforest and swarms of butterflies. Yet another excellent day minus the massive sunburn I acquired.
While I do want to spend some weekends in Asuncion, I ventured from the city once again last weekend. This time, however, I went to the southern border town of Encarnacion. The city itself proved relatively unremarkable. Aging buildings line most roads, dilapidated buses from the 1960s spew black fumes, and omnipresent vendors harrass anyone in their path. Yet, the trip was certainly worthwhile in that I had the opportunity to visit the aging Jesuit ruins in nearby Trinidad and Jesus.
Soon after the Spanish conquered the "new" world, Jesuit missionaries began streaming across the Atlantic in order to convert indigenous groups to Christianity. As part of this process, they built gigantic settlements consisting of churches, homes, farms, and even more churches. The settlements thrived, but fell into disrepair when the missionaries were expelled at the end of the eighteenth century. Today, only the shells of the building survive creating an eerily haunted environment.
Regardless of the settlement's condition, the ruins easily constitute one of the coolest places that I have ever ventured in my life. The sprawling red clay structures contrast sharply with the lush Paraguayan countryside. Moreover, unlike many similar sites, they have not been overrun by the tourist industry. When visiting, there were often no more than 2 or 3 others on each site making it much easier to imagine I was living in the settlement during its heyday.
My time in Paraguay has not solely consisted of travel, however. As expected, I spend the majority of my time at my internship designing a program to educate women to advocate for their own rights. As I enjoy my work, I actually look forward to my short trek to the office each morning, although I admit I prefer the days when my project takes me into the field. Even the simplest tasks often become adventures because, as I am quickly learning, nothing ever goes as expected in Paraguay.
Two weeks ago, for instance, Lourdes and I had a relatively simple assignment. We needed to drive to the village of Villa Ygatimi in the Departmento de Canindeyu, collect a rural microfinance committee's payment and deposit it in the bank before the close of business. Easy, right?
Although we expected a smooth trip, the problems began about 45 kilometers outside Villa Ygatimi in the midst of a small storm. At this point, the only road leading to the village changes into a dirt road. On a sunny day, this certainly isn't a problem as the red clay makes an excellent surface. Rain, however, turns the road into an impassable muddy pit. As the village is located in the rain forest, this is a relatively frequent occurance.
As we needed to collect the money that day, Lourdes and I continued forward anyways. Our progress was slow; we constantly had to climb into the mid to push the car and adjust the tires. Fortunately, we finally arrived at our destination a little dirtier and quite a bit later than expected. Along the way, we saw numerous trucks that were not as lucky. Often from multinational logging companies or other groups extracting the areas resources, the large vehicles simply could not navigate the mud while some of the desperately poor children living in the area sat on the ridges laughing. Poetic justice if you will; the companies take the resources and leave very little of their profits to help the local communities but the children have the last laugh.
Unlike the truckers, we did reach Villa Ygatimi at our destination. Upon arriving, we were warmly welcomed by a rural microfinance committee, or a group of unrelated farmers receiving loans collectively. While each man will receive his own capital, all accept responsibility for the group’s debt. If one man cannot afford his monthly payment, then the others must repay his debt or risk incurring more interest.
In this case, the men needed to pay before December 30, 2009 to avoid incurring more interest. After collecting the money, we gave them the money from their next loan and explained the conditions. Each man actively took an interest in the proceedings by asking questions and determining each man’s monthly payment.
Unfortunately, we needed to end the meeting abruptly in order to deposit their payment. We needed to return along the same seemingly impassable road before the banks closed at 4:00PM. Miraculously, the road had improved significantly throughout the past few hours and we made it back to paved roads in only half the time we needed to arrive. Once we arrived on the asphalt and in the town of Curuguaty, we believed we had succeeded. The clock had just struck 2:00 and the local bank did not close until 4:45 or so the sign suggested. However, as we soon learned, this did not necessarily matter. According to the man inside, the bank closed at 2:00 and there was absolutely no way he could serve us. Would we be able to deposit the money on time?
As there were no other banks with which Fundación Paraguaya has an account in the town, we needed to continue onward and find one that actually helped clients until its posted close. Lourdes soon realized that the nearest one could be found in “nearby” Santani, only two hours away. Although unsure if we could arrive on time, we knew we had to try. Driving just at the speed limit, we hurtled through farmlands, rainforest, and yet another storm. Somehow, we managed to arrive with a few moments to spare after our harrowing trip. SUCCESS.
Not every trip proves as exciting. Regardless, venturing into the field easily constitutes my favorite part of my internship and I cannot wait to embark on more trips in the coming weeks.
Pictures have, of course, been posted.
26.12.09
From Merry Christmas a Feliz Navidad
Although ostensibly a religious holiday, Christmas has long lost its religious significance for many in affluent parts of the world. It has become a celebration of capitalism and our power to over-indulge ourselves on gifts, turkey,and chocolate cake (not that it isn't all appreciated). Yet, millions continue to rejoice without such material goods. As I spent the 25th of December in Paraguay this year, I had the unique opportunity to experience the holiday through the eyes of a Paraguayan family.
Rather than spending the holidays alone in the intern house, I trekked to the suburb of San Lorenzo to celebrate with a co-worker and her family. After I arrived, we spent most of the next few hours lounging around in the intense heat and sipping on terere. In addition to being delicious, the iced tea provides a welcome chill in the absence of air conditioning. Even if they had air conditioning, it wouldn't have been much help; we lost electricity twice that night without reason and water at least once that I know of.
As midnight approached, we sat down to dinner beneath the stars. It was far from calm; reggaeton beats and Christmas carols wafted from nearby houses; neighborhood children launched fireworks in preparation for Jesus's birth. Suddenly, about 5 minutes before midnight, all went silent. We quickly went inside and gathered around the nativity for some prayers and a toast to Jesus's birth. Interestingly, the toast only consisted of a small sip of champaign. The remaining contents of our glasses returned to the bottle to be saved for another special occasion.
Every moment, the neighborhood regained a little of its earlier liveliness. After finishing our dinner, I served the chocolate and galleta cake I had struggled to produce the night before. Not one of my better creations, but I'll blame the gas oven in the intern house. How am I supposed to make culinary magic happen when I don't even know the temperature? Yet, I'm glad I brought it; as there was no other dessert, we would have celebrated a chocolate-less Christmas without it.
As the clock approached 1:00 AM, the conversation began to dwindle and the girls and I began to prepare ourselves for a night of dancing and laughter with their friends. Within an hour, we were walking towards a friends' house in our most elegant attire. Too bad our trek aligned perfectly with the nightly downpour. Regardless, it was an excellent night ending with a beautiful sunrise while walking home.
Unlike past Christmases when my entire family bounded out of bed at the first rays of sunlight to see whether Santa though we'd been naughty or nice, no one arose before 11:00. Once awake, we spent the day lounging around, drinking terere, and visiting neighborhood friends. Interestingly, terere culture extends to all beverages in Paraguay. Rather than using several glasses when sharing a bottle of soda or wine, all just pas one glass around the circle and refill it whenever necessary. This serves as an excellant means of uniting strangers; unfortunately, it's also a great way to share germs and start and epidemic.
Saturday morning I finally returned to my own home via the cities buses. Unlike the Santiago system, they rarely seem to be overflowing with people. Unfortunately, I managed to time my trip home perfectly; the bus was too crowded. Regardless, the driver continued allowing more people to board so I ended up hanging out an open door as the bus bounced along the dirt road. Terrifying, but, on the bright side, the constant breeze kept me from overheating in the throngs of people.
Tired from the past few days, I spent the majority of the day absorbed in a book, running, and otherwise relaxing in the spacious intern house. I considered trekking to Mercado 4, but ultimately decided to delay my trip in favor of spending more time there on Sunday.
Thus, I dragged myself out of bed early Sunday morning to journey to the famous market. Located about twenty minutes from my house by bus, the sprawling open-air market spans for several blocks and features just about every item imaginable. Munching on fresh pineapple and peaches, I meandered for hours awed by the market's sheer size. I shouldn't have been surprised though; upwards of 50% of Paraguayan work in the informal economy.
Slightly sunburnt and dehydrated from the heat, I eventually returned home and began running other necessary errands. These brought me to Mariscal Lopez Shopping, an upscale mall less than 10 minutes from my house. The contrast with the earlier market was striking; it was more orderly, less congenial, and more overwhelmingly Americanized as its most popular outlets seems to be McDonald's and Nike (an odd pairing if you ask me). It's certainly an interesting contrast and as Paraguay develops, it seems likely that the open air markets will be replaced by more generic shopping malls. Unfortunately.
Still tired from the Christmas festivities, I collapsed in my bed early Sunday evening only to be jolted awake by my alarm far too soon. Time for another day of work spent translating documents for Kiva and uploading client forms and bios. Sounds monotonous, but I actually enjoy it. Tomorrow I'm traveling to the countryside in order to see rural microfinance firsthand. Pictures and reflections coming shortly. With the correct date on the entry for a change?
Rather than spending the holidays alone in the intern house, I trekked to the suburb of San Lorenzo to celebrate with a co-worker and her family. After I arrived, we spent most of the next few hours lounging around in the intense heat and sipping on terere. In addition to being delicious, the iced tea provides a welcome chill in the absence of air conditioning. Even if they had air conditioning, it wouldn't have been much help; we lost electricity twice that night without reason and water at least once that I know of.
As midnight approached, we sat down to dinner beneath the stars. It was far from calm; reggaeton beats and Christmas carols wafted from nearby houses; neighborhood children launched fireworks in preparation for Jesus's birth. Suddenly, about 5 minutes before midnight, all went silent. We quickly went inside and gathered around the nativity for some prayers and a toast to Jesus's birth. Interestingly, the toast only consisted of a small sip of champaign. The remaining contents of our glasses returned to the bottle to be saved for another special occasion.
Every moment, the neighborhood regained a little of its earlier liveliness. After finishing our dinner, I served the chocolate and galleta cake I had struggled to produce the night before. Not one of my better creations, but I'll blame the gas oven in the intern house. How am I supposed to make culinary magic happen when I don't even know the temperature? Yet, I'm glad I brought it; as there was no other dessert, we would have celebrated a chocolate-less Christmas without it.
As the clock approached 1:00 AM, the conversation began to dwindle and the girls and I began to prepare ourselves for a night of dancing and laughter with their friends. Within an hour, we were walking towards a friends' house in our most elegant attire. Too bad our trek aligned perfectly with the nightly downpour. Regardless, it was an excellent night ending with a beautiful sunrise while walking home.
Unlike past Christmases when my entire family bounded out of bed at the first rays of sunlight to see whether Santa though we'd been naughty or nice, no one arose before 11:00. Once awake, we spent the day lounging around, drinking terere, and visiting neighborhood friends. Interestingly, terere culture extends to all beverages in Paraguay. Rather than using several glasses when sharing a bottle of soda or wine, all just pas one glass around the circle and refill it whenever necessary. This serves as an excellant means of uniting strangers; unfortunately, it's also a great way to share germs and start and epidemic.
Saturday morning I finally returned to my own home via the cities buses. Unlike the Santiago system, they rarely seem to be overflowing with people. Unfortunately, I managed to time my trip home perfectly; the bus was too crowded. Regardless, the driver continued allowing more people to board so I ended up hanging out an open door as the bus bounced along the dirt road. Terrifying, but, on the bright side, the constant breeze kept me from overheating in the throngs of people.
Tired from the past few days, I spent the majority of the day absorbed in a book, running, and otherwise relaxing in the spacious intern house. I considered trekking to Mercado 4, but ultimately decided to delay my trip in favor of spending more time there on Sunday.
Thus, I dragged myself out of bed early Sunday morning to journey to the famous market. Located about twenty minutes from my house by bus, the sprawling open-air market spans for several blocks and features just about every item imaginable. Munching on fresh pineapple and peaches, I meandered for hours awed by the market's sheer size. I shouldn't have been surprised though; upwards of 50% of Paraguayan work in the informal economy.
Slightly sunburnt and dehydrated from the heat, I eventually returned home and began running other necessary errands. These brought me to Mariscal Lopez Shopping, an upscale mall less than 10 minutes from my house. The contrast with the earlier market was striking; it was more orderly, less congenial, and more overwhelmingly Americanized as its most popular outlets seems to be McDonald's and Nike (an odd pairing if you ask me). It's certainly an interesting contrast and as Paraguay develops, it seems likely that the open air markets will be replaced by more generic shopping malls. Unfortunately.
Still tired from the Christmas festivities, I collapsed in my bed early Sunday evening only to be jolted awake by my alarm far too soon. Time for another day of work spent translating documents for Kiva and uploading client forms and bios. Sounds monotonous, but I actually enjoy it. Tomorrow I'm traveling to the countryside in order to see rural microfinance firsthand. Pictures and reflections coming shortly. With the correct date on the entry for a change?
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